After a four-hour, lung-busting ascent, we climb the last steps up the rocky scree to reach the vertiginous summit of the Valbona Pass.
Surrounding us is the untamed wilderness of the irresistibly-named Accursed Mountains in northern Albania. Ominous storm clouds are gathering between the jagged peaks and ridges in the direction of our descent over the other side.
For nearly half of the 20th century, this brooding landscape was closed off to the world under communist rule. Since opening up again, the region has bewitched hikers and adventurers with its remoteness and quietude.
But beyond that, it remained an off-beat destination in a country too often tainted by stereotypes - until a few years ago.
Albania’s northern mountain range is now much more on travellers’ radars. It made it into the New York Times’ 52 Destinations for 2024 and budget airlines including Ryanair and Wizz have launched new routes to the country.
For now, it is still a serene spot. But it is at a pivotal point where the influx of tourists seeking its rugged nature and non-commercialised hospitality might be the cause of their disappearance.
For a sustainable, slow trip in these hinterlands, try this three-day Valbona Pass itinerary for a taster of life in the 800,000 km-squared Alps of Albania National Park.
The Valbona Pass is an accessible (though not easy) hiking route that local tour companies have incorporated into a convenient three-day adventure.
Tourists first need to make their way to the nearest city, Shkoder, and book in for a night.
Arriving through the gritty residential blocks of the outskirts is underwhelming, but get to the city early enough to spend time wandering the pedestrianised central streets with cafe tables spilling onto the pavement.
Booking with one of the many local companies or through your hotel, you can arrange an early pickup from your accommodation the next morning to begin your itinerary.
The first leg of the journey is in a minivan for around one and a half hours to Lake Komani. Here, you board a crowded ferry - grab a waterside seat for the view - and sail for about two and a half hours through a long gorge of emerald water flanked by fierce rock faces.
Upon disembarking at the Fierza ferry stop, you’ll be met by another minivan that takes you the rest of the way to the town of Valbona, the gateway to the mountains.
You’ll find guesthouses scattered along the snaking road of the village, but try to book closest to the trailhead. Aim to stay in one of the old stone constructions with steep slate roofs and chalet-like simple wooden interiors.
You’ll awake to a breakfast spread of homemade cheese, freshly-picked tomatoes and cucumbers and warm bread that you can enjoy outside with a view of sharp, snow-flecked m
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I've been traveling to Orlando at least twice a month for the past 10 years. Since I visit the city's theme parks so often, I'm always looking for something new to do with family, friends, or by myself.