When I first visited Montreal, it was during a blizzard. I was in my 20s, at an inflection point in my life, and the weather felt portentous. Somewhere between having a smoked-meat sandwich at the counter of Schwartz's and barely making it up the charming but icy spiral staircases that are characteristic of the city's architecture, I fell hard for the place—though, luckily, not down the stairs. Before I knew it, I had abandoned my plans for grad school and moved to La Belle Province to start a new life.