A first-time guide to Paraguay

03.10.2024 - 19:37 / lonelyplanet.com

Oct 3, 2024 • 6 min read

Wedged between Brazil and Argentina is a country no bigger than the US state of California – with the largely inaccessible Gran Chaco region accounting for about 60% of its land mass. Perhaps that’s why even ambitious travelers often overlook Paraguay. (It doesn’t help that there’s no dedicated Lonely Planet guide to the country.)

Yet visitors who do make it to this subtropical, landlocked South American country find ample rewards: quirky cities, rich cultural sites and natural beauty. And no chance of overtourism.

If you’re among the many who have never been, here’s what you need to know before your visit to Paraguay.

Most areas of Paraguay have a subtropical climate, so expect hot, humid and rainy conditions year-round. Temperatures are especially high during the South American summer months (December through February), with rain more likely during winter months (June through September). Unlike countries with high numbers of tourists, high and low seasons aren’t really a thing in Paraguay, and prices remain largely affordable, with few seasonal price bumps, no matter what time of year you choose to visit.

Since much of the west of the country is inaccessible, top destinations in the east are relatively close together. Yet public-transportation options are limited (see below). If you’re only interested in a few top sites and a city or two, count in a week-long visit. If you’re interested in seeing all of the top destinations across Paraguay – such as touring the Itaipu dam, visiting Jesuit missions and exploring the country’s parks and waterfalls – allow at least two weeks. If you also plan to do ambitious hiking and camping, and/or spend time exploring more-remote areas such as the Chaco region, add on additional days.

International flights land at Silvio Pettirossi International Airport in the capital of Asunción. But a flight isn’t required to get here: since Paraguay is part of the so-called Tri-Border Region, overland crossings are available and easy to and from southern Brazil and northern Argentina. Once in Paraguay, you’ll find that cities are walkable and taxi services readily available. Short- and long-distance buses traverse Paraguay – but don’t expect comfort or ease of booking, especially if your Spanish is not strong. Consider renting a vehicle for travel between destinations: many major international rental companies have vehicles for hire from the international airport in Asunción. Local car rental companies also exist.

In a country crisscrossed by water channels, Paraguay has some dazzling waterfalls, including Monday Falls, and national parks with waterfalls within their borders. Ñacunday National Park, for example, is home to the Ñacunday Waterfall as well as a