The Warmth of Montreal's Food Scene Will Always Be Its Draw

04.10.2024 - 17:15 / cntraveler.com

When I first visited Montreal, it was during a blizzard. I was in my 20s, at an inflection point in my life, and the weather felt portentous. Somewhere between having a smoked-meat sandwich at the counter of Schwartz's and barely making it up the charming but icy spiral staircases that are characteristic of the city's architecture, I fell hard for the place—though, luckily, not down the stairs. Before I knew it, I had abandoned my plans for grad school and moved to La Belle Province to start a new life.

Fresh sesame bagels from Fairmount

Chef Marc Cohen (left) in the kitchen at Lawrence

People come to Montreal for all sorts of reasons—the old European buildings, the parade of festivals, the easy-to-access nature. But the primary reason I moved was for the energy I derived from the people. And there is no better way to experience this feeling than through dining. It's there in top restaurants like Lawrence, Vin Mon Lapin, Mastard, or Beba, where the kitchens hum in fierce dedication to the terroir of Quebec. It drifts across the patio at Buvette Chez Simone, which has been serving natural wine since 2008.

As one of the oldest cities in Canada, Montreal is built on a smaller, more human scale, and everything feels within reach. I can start the morning with a fresh sesame bagel at Fairmount and chase it with an old-school Italian cappuccino at Café Olimpico. If it's warm, I'll sip my coffee outside in the sun. Inevitably, a friend will pass by and we'll embark on a walking brunch, stopping for chocolate babka at Hof Kelsten, croissants made at Automne Boulangerie's on-site mill, and a tamago sando at Ohayo Café. Montreal is also relatively affordable, and the daily pace matches that ease of living. There is always time to linger with locals over drinks at Buvette Chez Simone, which can lead to a microbrew and a burger at Isle de Garde, take-out Portuguese roast chicken from Ma Poule Mouillée, or northern Thai whole fried fish at Pichai.

The petite bistro Vin Mon Lapin

Fall colors in Bonsecours Basin

Depending on the season, the city is either covered in snow or drenched in sunshine. Take a cue from Montrealers to figure out how to make the best of both: When the days get warmer and I see the dizzying array of summer produce at Marché Jean-Talon, it feels like we've all won the lottery, and the smiles of fellow marketgoers confirm this. There are plenty of choices for lunch nearby, but few are as good as the poutine at Chez Tousignant with a generous helping of fresh cheese curds, a slice of the soppressata pie with honey at Pizza Bouquet, or the fiery Szechuan chili-oil-soaked noodles at J'ai Feng.

Other places are evergreen. There is never a bad season to hold hands over a romantic meal at Alma or Heni