On a damp morning in Istanbul, I pay a visit to Zeyrek Çinili Hamam, a recently unveiled museum in a 500-year-old public bathhouse that once echoed with the chatter of the Ottoman middle class. Getting there involves zigzagging through the winding cobbled streets of Zeyrek, one of four UNESCO World Heritage sites in Istanbul. It was a holy place 1,000 years ago, during the Byzantine Empire, but these days it's uncharted territory for most Istanbulites. Few people are out: only the odd chain-smoking vegetable vendor and some meandering octogenarians doing their grocery shopping. The fall air smells faintly of raw meat, thanks to the butchers who have long populated the neighborhood. Trying to make sense of Google Maps on my phone, I almost collide with several men haphazardly carrying a sheep carcass from a van. I am lost. Or at least I think I am, until I realize that I've passed the hammam four or five times without noticing its domed roof.
As happens so often in Istanbul, the past is staring right at me, even when I don't see it.
The pool at the Peninsula Istanbul
Anlam Arslanoğlu de Coster, artistic director at the newly restored Zeyrek Çinili Hamam
My first plane flight, when I was six months old, was to Turkey. Since then, I've visited Istanbul more times than I can count. I have hazy memories of summer trips to see relatives in the 1990s: spitting watermelon seeds into the Bosphorus with my cousins; crying on a stifling August day after being stung by a bee; getting brain freeze from a cherry dondurma; listening to “Careless Whisper” playing on a taxi radio.
My father's deep connection to the country kept us returning. He grew up in the southern city of Adana, where my grandfather Danış—a handsome man I know only through photographs—was once the mayor. Dad left for London at 19 to train as an architect, but our family home is lined with photographs and ephemera collected by the previous generations. Now 79, he says he still dreams in Turkish.
Despite all of this living in my consciousness, I've never felt a tangible connection with this half of my identity. Growing up in central London in an English-speaking household, I thought of Turkey as a distant acquaintance I couldn't quite place, regardless of the endless mispronunciations of my name that made me all the more aware of my Turkishness. Later, when I was a teenager in the wake of 9/11, it seemed easier to be British than Turkish. Only in recent years have I learned that possessing a lineage to two places, two cultures, is infinitely more interesting than to one.
Piles of green almonds and berries
Inside Zeyrek Çinili Hamam
So I'd come to Istanbul to get to know the country on my own terms and to ask myself: Who might I have become if my
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The giant metropolis of Istanbul, with around 16 million inhabitants, has never stopped reinventing itself—whilst keeping one eye firmly on its historic roots. Just a few years ago, the Galataport project opened up three-quarters of a mile of coastline in harborside Karaköy to the public via a boardwalk lined with modern cafes, shops, restaurants, and museums. Most notably, there’s the famed architect Renzo Piano-designed Istanbul Modern and the new, ultra-luxurious Peninsula Istanbul made up of several 19th-century buildings on the Golden Horn waterway's European side.
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