On a damp morning in Istanbul, I pay a visit to Zeyrek Çinili Hamam, a recently unveiled museum in a 500-year-old public bathhouse that once echoed with the chatter of the Ottoman middle class. Getting there involves zigzagging through the winding cobbled streets of Zeyrek, one of four UNESCO World Heritage sites in Istanbul. It was a holy place 1,000 years ago, during the Byzantine Empire, but these days it's uncharted territory for most Istanbulites. Few people are out: only the odd chain-smoking vegetable vendor and some meandering octogenarians doing their grocery shopping. The fall air smells faintly of raw meat, thanks to the butchers who have long populated the neighborhood. Trying to make sense of Google Maps on my phone, I almost collide with several men haphazardly carrying a sheep carcass from a van. I am lost. Or at least I think I am, until I realize that I've passed the hammam four or five times without noticing its domed roof.
As happens so often in Istanbul, the past is staring right at me, even when I don't see it.
The pool at the Peninsula Istanbul
Anlam Arslanoğlu de Coster, artistic director at the newly restored Zeyrek Çinili Hamam
My first plane flight, when I was six months old, was to Turkey. Since then, I've visited Istanbul more times than I can count. I have hazy memories of summer trips to see relatives in the 1990s: spitting watermelon seeds into the Bosphorus with my cousins; crying on a stifling August day after being stung by a bee; getting brain freeze from a cherry dondurma; listening to “Careless Whisper” playing on a taxi radio.
My father's deep connection to the country kept us returning. He grew up in the southern city of Adana, where my grandfather Danış—a handsome man I know only through photographs—was once the mayor. Dad left for London at 19 to train as an architect, but our family home is lined with photographs and ephemera collected by the previous generations. Now 79, he says he still dreams in Turkish.
Despite all of this living in my consciousness, I've never felt a tangible connection with this half of my identity. Growing up in central London in an English-speaking household, I thought of Turkey as a distant acquaintance I couldn't quite place, regardless of the endless mispronunciations of my name that made me all the more aware of my Turkishness. Later, when I was a teenager in the wake of 9/11, it seemed easier to be British than Turkish. Only in recent years have I learned that possessing a lineage to two places, two cultures, is infinitely more interesting than to one.
Piles of green almonds and berries
Inside Zeyrek Çinili Hamam
So I'd come to Istanbul to get to know the country on my own terms and to ask myself: Who might I have become if my
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China brought in over 17.25 million foreign tourists from January to July this year, a 130% increase compared to 2023, according to latest data from the National Immigration Administration (NIA). The influx is set to generate over CNY 100 billion ($14 billion) in consumer spending, with per capita daily spending nearing CNY 3,459 ($485).
When my husband and I got stranded in Paris during the global Crowdstrike meltdown last month, we decided to make it a lemonade out of lemons event. We were on our way home, flying with Delta Air Lines from Istanbul to Albuquerque, New Mexico, with a connection through Paris following a two-week Mediterranean cruise.
A cruise on the Mediterranean Sea aboard a superyacht was supposed to be a celebratory event for the British tech entrepreneur Mike Lynch, who was acquitted in June of fraud charges tied to the sale of his company, Autonomy, to the tech giant Hewlett-Packard.
With summer coming to an end, make the best of it by embarking on a holiday in Türkiye. Perfect for solo travels and family trips, Türkiye offers the most varied experiences in the Mediterranean. From the vibrant cultural tapestry of İstanbul to the sun-kissed shores of the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts, each Turkish destination offers a journey filled with many unforgettable experiences, complemented by world-famous Turkish hospitality and cuisine.
There has been a shift in travel preferences with emerging trends such as quiet travel and the pursuit of a slow-paced life gaining popularity in recent months. Quiet travel is a way of exploring that emphasises tranquillity, mindfulness, and a closer connection to nature. Scotland’s serene landscapes offer a perfect escape for those seeking quiet, reflective travel in nature’s embrace.
As interest in visiting Porto only grows stronger, visitors are finding even more things to do in the city. What was once seen for many as a short trip is becoming a longer break, with exploration outside of the city centre and into neighboring areas. Porto may be Portugal’s second largest city—after Lisbon—but it did give the country its name from the Roman Portus Cale. Centuries later, the city became famous for port, its “divine nectar of the Gods,” tastings of which are highly recommended in any of the port lodges lining the riverside in Vila Nova de Gaia. From there, look across the Douro at Porto’s colorful jumble of medieval houses, soaring church towers, and glossy blue-and-white tiled façades. Here, our selection of the best things to do in Porto can help you weave your way through the city, dipping into its sights, sounds, tastes, and smells to better get under its skin. To be sure, Porto will get under yours too.
This is an as-told-to essay based on a conversation with Helene Sula , a travel blogger and author of "Two O'Clock on a Tuesday at Trevi Fountain: A Search for an Unconventional Life Abroad."
I first tasted lavash in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, at a restaurant named after the flatbread. Bakers rolled out huge ovals of thin dough, slapped them against the wall of a clay oven called a tonir, and, after leaving them inside for a minute, pulled out delightfully blistered bread. Pliable and paper-thin, lavash in Armenia is ubiquitous and versatile: For lunch, it can be stuffed with cheese and pickled vegetables; for dinner, it is often served with a barbecued meat called khorovats, the smell of which perfumes almost every street corner in Yerevan. Mine came with an omelet topped with blades of tarragon—an ideal summer brunch.
Edelweiss, a Switzerland-based airline that is owned by Lufthansa, recently announced new twice-weekly flights from Seattle's SeaTac Airport to Zurich Airport. The flights will operate every Monday and Saturday and depart Seattle at 4:25 p.m. arriving into Zurich at 11:45 a.m. the next day.