Hong Kong's Intervals lounge is a new airport bar concept that offers great views and a space that is open to all ... for a price.
31.07.2023 - 15:05 / cntraveler.com / Art Basel / Tate Modern
On a friday night at Soho House Hong Kong, the 30th-floor Pool Room was at capacity. A DJ churned out West Coast hip-hop classics for a crowd of creative multihyphenates thronging the bar and squeezed onto the narrow balcony. It was just one of the parties and openings accompanying Art Basel, back in full force for the first time since 2019 and bringing with it something not seen here in a while: international visitors.
For three years, Hong Kong was hermetically sealed from the world while being roiled by both the pandemic and political protests. When I arrived in March, two months after the city's reopening—and 12 years after my last visit—the change that most jumped out at me lay across Victoria Harbor from Hong Kong Island and Soho House. It was the rise of the Kowloon area—both on the skyline and in the culture. Once, visitors like me would head straight to Hong Kong Island, working through its dim sum parlors and markets by day and carousing by night. Now, though, Kowloon “is where everyone comes,” my driver said as we sped past Harbour City, the district's luxury-shopping hub, which rivals the main island's prestigious Causeway Bay.
Rosewood Hong Kong standing tall over Victoria Harbor
A corner suite at the Rosewood
One factor in this shift has been Rosewood Hong Kong, a towering presence on Kowloon Peninsula, which opened in 2019 as the luxury brand's flagship and an anchor for the new arts district Victoria Dockside. But just a year later, its rooms were hosting frontline workers while its kitchen prepared meals for nearby hospitals. When restrictions eased, it quickly became a sanctuary for restless locals who booked staycations as the city waited to welcome the world back in. My week in Hong Kong felt like a turning point. “Art Basel just energized Hong Kong's reopening,” said Radha Arora, Rosewood Hotels & Resorts' president. Every one of the hotel's nine dining establishments was packed. I just barely managed to swing a table at Chaat, its Michelin-starred Indian restaurant.
If Victoria Dockside is Kowloon's new social hub, the area's new cultural epicenter is West Kowloon Cultural District, two miles away. This ambitious 100-acre waterfront development is anchored by a pair of enormous arts institutions that opened during the pandemic: the Hong Kong Palace Museum and M+. The latter, designed by Herzog & de Meuron, is Hong Kong's answer to London's Tate Modern, dominating Kowloon's skyline with its giant LED façade. When I visited, an extensive Yayoi Kusama retrospective competed for my attention with stunning views of Victoria Harbor. Facing M+ is the WKCDA Tower, home to the massive new Asia headquarters of the auction house Phillips.
One of the many food stalls that line Hong Kong’s
Hong Kong's Intervals lounge is a new airport bar concept that offers great views and a space that is open to all ... for a price.
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