At the age of 63, I was bankrupt and in foreclosure. I had less than nothing because I owed money to a friend. All I had were my pensions. I knew I could never afford to retire in the US.
23.07.2024 - 00:11 / lonelyplanet.com
Jul 22, 2024 • 6 min read
Madrid’s culinary landscape has evolved so much over recent times. Twenty years ago, when I moved to the Spanish capital, dining in indoor mercados (markets) was non-existent, the concept of “brunch” was unfamiliar and Asian restaurants were scarce.
Today, thanks to a growing cosmopolitan community, diverse cultural influences and a new generation of creative Spanish chefs, Madrid’s food scene has surged with exciting innovations. From traditional tapas venues to market hot spots and Michelin-starred restaurants, Madrid has created a gastronomic space blending tradition with innovation, making it one of the world’s best destinations to indulge your cravings.
Here are some of my favorite dining spots and food recommendations.
My go-to Spanish breakfast is a simple classic I’ll never tire of: pan con tomate (toasted bread with tomato pulp, drizzled with olive oil and a pinch of salt). You can order this in any of the ubiquitous cafeterías open early in the morning. My neighborhood favorite is El Ducado, where I stop every morning for my caffeine fix.
Weekend brunch has exploded in popularity in Madrid. Carmencita was the brunch pioneer in the Conde Duque area, with exceptional classic plates like eggs benedict and huevos rancheros (fried tortillas, refried beans, fried eggs, and salsa), plus great coffee and mimosas.
When I’m with friends, I love going to Federal Café in Plaza del Conde de Barajas to soak in the vibrant atmosphere in Madrid’s historic old town and order its perfect scrambled eggs with toast, bacon and avocado.
La Desayunería in the Chueca neighborhood has the best all-day American breakfasts in town. Its origin story traces to a backpacking trip taken by co-founders Paula and Laura, who collected breakfast recipes across the US. Its extensive menu has a lot of goodies to choose from, but I always go for its chicken and waffles and Manchito’s Breakfast, which is essentially fried eggs and cheese with pancakes and French toast.
Specialty coffee culture has flourished across Madrid in recent years, revolutionizing the traditional Spanish coffee scene rooted in the torrefacto process. This method involves coating coffee beans with sugar before roasting, serving as an economical way to prolong the beans' shelf life. Today, specialty coffee shops offer a diverse array of options, using premium, ethically sourced beans meticulously roasted and brewed by skilled baristas.
Bona Specialty Coffee is a compact, cozy nook in the La Latina neighborhood, located beside a restored ancient 12th-century wall along Calle Almendro. Pair a cup of good coffee with medialunas (the Argentine version of croissants). Also in La Latina, Slow Café Madrid is a half-hidden outpost near the majestic
At the age of 63, I was bankrupt and in foreclosure. I had less than nothing because I owed money to a friend. All I had were my pensions. I knew I could never afford to retire in the US.
Since our American family moved from South Carolina to Madrid, I've been slowly adapting to all things Spain.
This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Charissa Enget, a content creator and cybersecurity architect who gained her graduate degree in Thailand. It has been edited for length and clarity.
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Whenever I visit Saint-Rémy-de-Provence—which I do a few times a year to visit my parents, who retired here almost a decade ago—I roll out of bed every morning before 7 a.m., often feeling the effects of the rosé from the night before, and walk with my dad into town while the streets are still waking up. This is partly because it gets so hot here in the South of France, and partly because my dad is a creature of habit. The morning routine goes a little like this: a brisk stroll up the road to the Bar Tabac des Alpilles, where the owner Patrick brings out coffees (café express for my dad, café creme for me) and one of the other early morning regulars hands us a newspaper to thumb through.
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