Local Flavor: where to eat and drink in Budapest

02.08.2024 - 17:14 / lonelyplanet.com

Aug 2, 2024 • 5 min read

Budapest's gastronomic scene buzzes with paprika-laden Hungarian dishes updated for contemporary tastes, increasing international influences, and crumbling ruin bars. However, the Hungarian capital's culinary scene is in continuous flux; for every new and exciting restaurant, there’s another ruin bar bulldozed to make way for new development.

I've watched the city change over the decades. I spent part of my childhood here, as my Hungarian mother wanted me to learn the language. I eventually returned to reconnect with my roots and have called Budapest home for the past 10 years. The culinary scene is no exception to the city's evolving culture. 

Hungarian food is traditionally heavy, often consisting of generous portions of meat, potatoes, paprika, and pork fat. That's why I am happy to see modern recipes or fusion styles reinterpreting the Hungarian classics, as Budapest’s gastronomic landscape has moved in a cosmopolitan direction (also good news for vegetarians and vegans).

Here are some spots I would take friends visiting the city for a weekend, along with a few favorites I visit regularly. 

I’m biased toward Bartók Béla Boulevard in Buda, as I’ve lived in the XI District since moving back and have watched this area flourish over the decade. A local fixture is Kelet, a popular cafe and bar lined with used books you can exchange. It's one of my all-time favorite breakfast spots, and I often treat myself to their omelets filled with feta cheese and paprika jam, accompanied by homemade pickles. Over in Pest, The Garden Cafe, a new brunch place set in the ivy-clad courtyard garden and shabby-chic bar inside Brody House, serves delicious vegetarian Turkish-style breakfasts. I recommend the Triple Cheese Gözelme made with flaky filo, goat, Gouda, and cottage cheese, and herbs.

Coffee is one of my vices, and I have to rein in my spending when I’m downtown, as there are so many specialty coffee houses. One of my regulars in Pest is Mantra, a cozy cafe on Veres Palné utca with their own roasters (I always buy beans from them), where I usually grab a flat white made with the light roast. Nearby, Fekete hides in a courtyard just off Astoria, serving coffee made with beans from another local roaster, Casino Mocca. It’s great for espresso. Head toward Parliament to Ohana for charming service, excellent cold brew, and coffee presented in gorgeous ceramics. 

Gettó Gulyás in the Jewish Quarter is where I'd recommend a Hungarian lunch for excellent value. They have a three-course menu on weekdays for under 3000 HUF (US$8) that changes daily (a la carte is also an option, but costs more), and food is promptly served so you can be in-and-out in less than an hour. Make sure you book, as there's