When I planned my family's trip to Southern Italy — including a stop at the Amalfi Coast — for the end of July, I knew enough to expect it'd be hot and crowded.
09.08.2024 - 15:47 / cntraveler.com
Martini in hand and pursuing another, I stumble to the bar—not because I’m drunk but because the bar itself is moving. I’m on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, A Belmond Train, Europe; specifically, in Bar Car 3674, swathed in sapphire velvet and buzzing with passengers in their black-tie best for cocktail hour. Outside, the landscape unfurls gradually, the industrial tableaus of France’s heartland fading into fields baking under the summer sun. Golden hour has hit; onboard, cufflinks and jewels catch the light and shine. There’s a mirthful sparkle to the crowd, guests and crew alike, made even more apparent by our close quarters on the train. As I sidle past a woman in a sequined dress, our crystal coupes meet by chance in a delicate clink. She and I exchange introductions and share a proper toast: We’re finally here.
Here is the inaugural journey of the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express (VSOE, for short) from Paris to Portofino, christened “Two Legends Meet.” For this new itinerary, to become an annual summer affair, passengers spend one night aboard the iconic train as it rolls southward through the French countryside and along the Italian Riviera, and check in for a two-night stay at the princely Splendido, A Belmond Hotel, Portofino. This is the first time the VSOE is traveling to the Ligurian coast, and the occasion is well-commemorated onboard. Earlier that afternoon, I was presented an array of souvenirs, among them an amenity kit decorated with artwork of both the Eiffel Tower and Portofino Bay; inside were a schedule-slash-scrapbook outlining the long weekend plus a Kodak instant camera. We’re here to make memories.
The train’s other fine touches, I was pleased to learn, are not exclusive to our trip, but staples of many other VSOE routes: the phalanx of white-gloved stewards who escorted me and my luggage to the handsome navy-and-cream carriages parked at Gare de l’Est; the elegant afternoon tea service and chilled bottle of Veuve Clicquot waiting for me in my cabin; the gleaming all-day bar captained by good-time ragazzi who cajoled me into a third espresso martini; and the baby grand piano where musicians Luigi de Gasperi and Filippo Cuomo Ulloa set the evening’s playful mood, serenading us with standards from the great American, French, and Italian songbooks, inviting one and all to join in.
At luxury hotels bolted into the ground, I’ve come to expect these crossed t’s and dotted i’s, sometimes so baseline as to be boring. But the five-star service aboard this sumptuous auberge on wheels, the novelty and literal ride of it, can make even the most worldly travelers feel giddy. (As I explored the sleeper cars, I overheard a passenger: “Caviar! On a train!”) It’s a very slick production,
When I planned my family's trip to Southern Italy — including a stop at the Amalfi Coast — for the end of July, I knew enough to expect it'd be hot and crowded.
While most American cities aren’t considered easy to navigate by foot, a recent study by travel insurance experts AllClear ranked one popular Southern city as the most walkable in the country. AllClear examined topographical information for more than 240 cities around the world, taking into account average elevation and range, and assigned each city a score — and ultimately, it was New Orleans that was named the most walkable city in the U.S. and the fourth most walkable city globally.
Like many TPGers, I've been sucked into credit cards with annual fees, but when I'm out and about, I use just two credit cards in my daily life.
Europe dominates in a new ranking of the world’s most beautiful cities, filling nine of the top 10 spots.
As the aviation industry navigates and prepares for future growth, two events must be on every aviation professional’s calendar: Skift Global Forum in New York City (September 17-19) and the Skift Aviation Forum in Dallas (November 12). These forums present invaluable opportunities to gain insights from top industry leaders. Here is a snapshot of just a few of the leaders who will be taking the stage at each event:
School was out, and we were in holiday mode. Buzzing with excitement, we headed to Heathrow Airport, our destination, Dallas, where my sister, husband, and three teenage daughters live.
A glamorous reboot of the Orient Express is hitting the rails in 2025, and the first look inside its carriages is breathtaking.
Aug 2, 2024 • 11 min read
Venice has banned tour guides from using megaphones and limited their groups to 25 people.
Aug 1, 2024 • 5 min read
Two dozen new sites were added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List this month, ranging from cultural treasures to natural wonders.
Amid the cafes and boutiques of Athens’s Kolonaki neighborhood is a housewares shop that’s also a showcase for Greek craftsmanship. It’s the first brick-and-mortar location for Crini & Sophia, the brand that the former interior and set designer Maya Zafeiropoulou-Martinou founded in 2022. Its wood-and-rattan shelves, two-tone marble floors and furniture are all made by Greek artists, while one window is decorated with a vinelike steel and spray-paint piece by the Cypriot sculptor Socrates Socratous. The shop’s goods are designed by Zafeiropoulou-Martinou, whose inspirations include the colors in Francis Bacon paintings and the Amazon rainforest. Linens are produced in Portugal before being embroidered in Greece with patterns that often take cues from antiques on view at Athens’s Benaki Museum. Hand-painted ceramics and glassware are made in partnership with artisans in New York, Greece, Italy and France. When it comes to designing your own table, Zafeiropoulou-Martinou encourages layering. “The pattern isn’t just the plate or the tablecloth,” she says of her pieces, “but a puzzle of the two on top of each other.”