The tonka bean, a wizened-looking South American seed, is beloved for its complex almond-vanilla scent, often appearing as an ingredient in perfumes. Outside the United States, it has also long been utilized by chefs, but studies have indicated that coumarin, a chemical compound in the plant, can cause liver damage in animals, and the Food and Drug Administration banned the bean in commercial foods in 1954. Now, with reports that the minuscule amounts used to impart big flavor are harmless (and the F.D.A. seemingly not particularly interested in enforcing the ban in recent years), tonka is showing up on dessert menus here. Thea Gould, 30, the pastry chef at the daytime luncheonette La Cantine and evening wine bar Sunsets in Bushwick, Brooklyn, was introduced to tonka after the restaurant’s owner received a jar from France, where it’s a widely used ingredient. Gould says the bean is an ideal stand-in for nuts — a common allergen — and infuses it into panna cotta, whipped cream and Pavlova. Ana Castro, 35, the chef and owner of the New Orleans seafood restaurant Acamaya, discovered tonka as a young line cook at Betony, the now-closed Midtown Manhattan restaurant. Entranced by the ingredient’s grassy, stone fruit-like notes, she’s used it to flavor a custardy corn nicuatole, steeped it into roasted candy squash purée and grated it fresh over a lush tres leches cake. And at the Musket Room in New York’s NoLIta, the pastry chef Camari Mick, 30, balances tonka’s richness with acidic citrus like satsuma and bergamot. Over the past year, she’s incorporated it into a silky lemon bavarois and a candy cap mushroom pot de crème and whipped it into ganache for a poached pear belle Hélène. “Some people ask our staff, ‘Isn’t tonka illegal?’” she says. Their answer: Our pastry chef’s got a guy. —
This Southern City Has Been Named the Most Walkable in the US
09.08.2024 - 16:32 / travelandleisure.com
While most American cities aren’t considered easy to navigate by foot, a recent study by travel insurance experts AllClear ranked one popular Southern city as the most walkable in the country. AllClear examined topographical information for more than 240 cities around the world, taking into account average elevation and range, and assigned each city a score — and ultimately, it was New Orleans that was named the most walkable city in the U.S. and the fourth most walkable city globally.
Originally designed by French military engineer Le Blond de la Tour in 1721, New Orleans' pedestrian-friendly French Quarter and Central Business District span two miles and are packed with more than 500 eateries and nearly 100 attractions. Among the city’s famous landmarks are the St. Louis Cathedral, Jackson Square, and Bourbon Street — ground zero for Mardi Gras.
With arguably some of the best cuisine in the U.S., food is a valid reason as any to visit New Orleans. Whether indulging in mouthwatering beignets at Café du Monde, savoring the comforting dishes at Dooky Chase's Restaurant in the historic African American Tremé neighborhood, or sampling a myriad of local delicacies, from crawfish étouffée to bread pudding and po' boys, the options for incredible food are endless.
While exploring New Orleans on foot is essential, don’t miss the opportunity to ride one of the city’s famed streetcars. The New Orleans Regional Transit Authority operates five routes throughout the city. For upscale accommodations with convenient access to the streetcar system and the French Quarter, consider staying at the Ritz-Carlton New Orleans and the Four Seasons New Orleans. Alternatively, for the quintessential Bourbon Street experience, reserve a room at the Royal Sonesta French Quarter.
New Orleans is not the only American city recognized by AllClear for its walkability. Three additional U.S. cities are featured on AllClear’s global top 20 list: Miami, Sacramento, and Tampa. Only one South American destination made the most walkable city list, with Buenos Aires in 15th place. To view the complete list and understand the methodology, visit allcleartravel.co.uk.
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