This story about sake makers in California is part ofHome, Made, a collection of stories honoring Asian diasporas creating vibrant communities by weaving their heritages with their American hometowns. Read more here.
It’s been seven years since I moved from my native California to become a writer in New York City, even longer since I spent my days as a winery cellar hand, scrubbing the tanks of their tartrate crystals and cleaning wine barrels of sludgy, grimace-tinted lees. As a Yonsei (fourth-generation) Japanese American, I was often one of the only women of color working in those warehouses. Still, I felt a kind of ancestral connection to people like Kanaye Nagasawa, an ex-samurai who arrived at the turn of the 20th century to operate one of the largest wineries in California, as well as the prosperous, all-Japanese farming communities in Sacramento County and Merced County. These pioneering winemakers and farmers weathered two world wars and despite Executive Order 9066—the 1942 order that resulted in the incarceration of 122,000 Japanese Americans and the loss of most of their property—helped to nurture California’s fields, going on to coax some of the highest quality grapes, oranges, berries, and rice from the land.
Despite, or perhaps because of, this weighted history, I still taste home in a bottle of Edna Valley pinot noir or craft sake, although the latter is far less recognized as a product of California. There are currently over 20 craft sake breweries across the country, all founded within the last 20 years or so, but some of the most innovative examples have emerged from my home state—made by Japanese American craftsmen. Some of these makers are even Issei (first-generation), with a direct connection to Japan’s thousands of years of sake history.
A matter of miles from the Port of Oakland, California lies the community of West Oakland, a historic center of Black culture nicknamed “Harlem of the West.” Here, nestled on Magnolia Street, amongst storied Victorian mansions and industrial warehouses covered in bold graffiti, is Den Sake, Oakland’s first sake brewery that was co-founded by Yoshihiro Sako and his wife Lani in 2017. A native of Kanagawa, Japan, Sako arrived in the United States in 2000, and as a bassist, was enticed by the music scene in San Francisco as well as the relentless curiosity and discipline of Bay Area’s makers, artists, and businesses—values that deeply motivated traditional Japanese artisanship. Heritage, for Sako, “is a deeper wisdom or knowledge than science, though innovation is just as important.”
Yoshihiro Sako and his wife Lani founded Den Sake in 2017 in the historic community of West Oakland.
Den's sake-making philosophy is anchored in a deep respect for
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