In our Simple Pleasures series, our writers show you how you can enjoy a fun and easy-going activity in their city without breaking the bank. Here, writer Stephanie Ong shares her secret for a good time in Milan for less than €15.
04.08.2023 - 17:51 / theguardian.com / queen Victoria
If picturesque cycling, coastal walks and simple seaside pleasures float your boat, make the Isle of Wight your first port of call. Home to Queen Victoria’s summer retreat, Osborne House, the island has 20 beaches and a series of unspoilt coves. A network of cycle and walking trails covers 17 miles of coastline and countryside. Famous for the Cowes sailing regatta in July and August, the 147-square-mile island also offers every water sport going, from kayak surfing and windsurfing to paddle-boarding and parasailing.
We explored by bike, our wheels borrowed from Foresters Hall, an impeccable, 14-bedroom Grade II-listed boutique hotel. Situated on a cobbled street in Cowes old town, Foresters is a five-minute walk from the Red Jet terminal – the journey to East Cowes from Southampton Quay takes 28 minutes.
The bike rack sits in the hotel courtyard, which leads past the lovely dining terrace to a small herb garden. Beyond, a white picket fence surrounds a small salt-water swimming pool, abutted by the Garden Suites building. A 3D mural by Joe Hill of 3D Joe and Max overlooks the pool, a swimmer looking as though he has just dived off the painted balcony.
Keen swimmers might like Room 11, which is next to the pool in the Garden Suite. For sea views and a bit of cinematic stardust, go for Room 12. Hotel owners Sara Curran and Peter Sussman, originally from Dublin and Toronto respectively, call it the Judi Dench suite. The star stayed in it during the filming of Victoria & Abdul, which was filmed at Osborne House.
On our second day, after a fortifying Foresters breakfast of Eggs Arnold Bennett, we took the four-mile wooded Cowes-to-Newport cycling trail that runs parallel to the River Medina. At Newport, we headed south to Carisbrooke Castle, where King Charles I was imprisoned, one escape attempt foiled when he got his head stuck in the window bars. Carisbrooke is also the starting point for the Tennyson Trail, which ends up at the Needles on the island’s most westerly point. We cycled the very short distance to the charming village of Shorwell for a veggie roast lunch at the Crown Inn instead. This route is more hilly than some might like – unless you are a cycling fiend, in which case you’d probably be on the Chalk Ridge Extreme anyway, a 50-mile route of steep gradients and cliff-top trails of which the Tennyson Trail is a part.
We had earned our pre-dinner cocktails, taken in the luxe Foresters bar, a striking blue room showcasing the couple’s art collection – including a portrait of a woman in a colourful robe, a signature motif of American artist Jim Dine. There’s also an Annie Leibovitz portrait in the ladies’ loo and paintings by Alex Katz, one of Peter’s favourite artists, throughout the hotel.
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In our Simple Pleasures series, our writers show you how you can enjoy a fun and easy-going activity in their city without breaking the bank. Here, writer Stephanie Ong shares her secret for a good time in Milan for less than €15.
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