Tending to the Land—and My Grief—on a Taro Farm in Hawai'i

13.07.2024 - 11:44 / cntraveler.com

This is part of Travel Firsts, a series featuring trips that required a leap of faith or marked a major life milestone.

Trudging through knee-deep, murky water with an ax in hand was not what I initially envisioned when I decided to volunteer in Hawai'i. I'm not sure what I thought replanting a taro field would involve. But intrinsically, I knew I wanted to give back to the islands.

My cousin Lynette (who had always been more of a sister) and I initially fell in love with the Aloha State when we visited 15 years ago for her wedding on O'ahu. But since that first trip, the destination played an even greater role in her life, and my own. When she eventually battled breast cancer, Lynette felt the place had healing powers, and it became the go-to location for joint family vacations over the 10 years she endured long stints of chemotherapy.

It has now been 1,374 days since I—we—lost her. Instead of facing my grief, I've tried to outrun it. Stillness and silence are foes. I’ve kept myself relentlessly busy, a deliberate effort to avoid the pain of my loss. There was always another story to write, another destination to explore, another task to check off the list. On the surface, life has seemed productive and fulfilling, yet just below the weight of unaddressed grief has muddied the waters of my existence. Ultimately, I've learned there's no cheat code: grief eventually catches up.

I finally decided to meet my pain head-on. I said yes when I was invited to join a group of Alaska Airlines employees as they volunteered for the state's mālama' āina (care for the land) program. For the job, I'd fly to O'ahu to work alongside local elders and residents to help replant a taro field. Taro, or "kalo," is a Hawaiian food staple deeply ingrained in the island's culture. Although I was returning for a great cause, it was my first time setting foot on Hawaiian soil since she passed—and my first time visiting without her by my side. I was petrified that all the sorrow I’d spent years running from would overwhelm and devastate me at once.

After a long flight, I touched down in Honolulu. As I stepped out of the terminal, I held my breath, bracing for a tsunami of emotions to overwhelm me. The waves didn’t crash down at first. But reminders of Lynette slowly appeared everywhere: in the small snack shop at the airport; along the traffic-dense roadways; and even while walking among throngs of tourists traipsing down a main street in search of food.

When I sat down for dinner on my first night, sleepy-eyed and jet-lagged, I could barely taste my meal. Why was I here? I focused on repeating what would become my mantra: "I'm doing this for Lynnette."

Writer Tykesha Burton gives back to the island that gave her decades of