The Changing Face of Travel in Bhutan

24.11.2023 - 12:51 / cntraveler.com

For years, the tiny Himalayan nation of Bhutan leveraged its otherworldly but imposing geography as a barrier against the world. But two decades ago, at the behest of the royal family, the cloistered kingdom, known for its “Gross National Happiness” index, invited in its first international brand. It wasn't McDonald's or Coca-Cola, but Aman, the ultra-luxury hotel company, which set up a circuit of five lodges collectively known as Amankora. Six Senses and COMO followed with lodge loops of their own, and soon Bhutan began topping adventure travelers' bucket lists.

Pemako, a homegrown luxury brand recently opened 21 tented villas in Bhutan's Punakha valley.

Pemako's spa is inspired by traditional Bhutanese medicine known as Sowa-Rigpa.

Now, a year after the country reopened its borders, a hospitality boomlet is underway. Historically, development has been concentrated in Paro, the gateway to the Tiger's Nest temple complex, and Thimphu, the capital city. But there's a new focus on Punakha, known for its scenic river and imposing dzong (fortified monastery). &Beyond, the high-end travel company with roots in Africa, just opened Punakha River Lodge: six safari-style tents and two wood-and-stone villas clustered around a communal lounge and swimming pool. Pemako, the nation's first homegrown luxury hotel group, recently launched 21 tented villas across 70 forested acres and a spa inspired by Sowa-Rigpa, a traditional form of Tibetan medicine. Homestays are also available, including at Mendrelgang Heritage Home, a renovated 100-year-old manor house with intricately painted cornices and wide-plank flooring.

Meanwhile, the local tour operator MyBhutan is taking travelers into even less-explored corners of the kingdom. Its new mobile geodesic tent setup brings glamping to far-flung districts like Gasa, tucked into the snowy High Himalayas. And additional hospitality heavyweights are eyeing the country, including the fast-expanding, sustainability-minded boutique brand Our Habitas, ensuring that future luxury travelers to Bhutan will not want for choice.

This article appeared in the December 2023 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.