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The Netherlands’ Inter Scaldes Has A New Take On Dutch Fine Dining
01.04.2024 - 11:45 / forbes.com
Wildly creative in a refined way. That’s how a local Swiss journalist hailed Dutch chef Jeroen Achtien during his previous job. “Wildly creative” is one of those phrases that get thrown around a lot (guilty here), but in this case it’s apt. It’s what the chef is now doing in his native Netherlands, where he’s stepped into some pretty big shoes.
Late last year, he and his partner, Sanne Achtien, took over the storied Inter Scaldes restaurant in Zeeland, near the Belgian border. Chef Jannis Brevet had manned the stoves there between 2001 and 2023 and achieved three Michelin stars. It wouldn’t be easy to replace him, but when the property came up for sale, a Belgian food blogger thought of the Achtiens.
“Inter Scaldes has been here 55 years,” says Jeroen. “It’s one of the most beautiful institutions in the Netherlands. We had to at least think about it.” As it turns out, they didn’t have to think for long.
Jeroen knew from age 14 that he wanted to be a chef, and over the years, he worked his way up from bistro kitchens to De Librije, which was the only other three-star in the Netherlands at the time. (It’s also where he met Sanne, who runs the dining room.) During five years in Switzerland, they earned two Michelin stars at Sens, the fine dining restaurant at the Vitznauerhof Hotel.
Being executive chef of a traditional hotel comes with a lot of responsibilities, and the Achtiens wanted to focus on small-scale fine dining in their native country. So they came to Inter Scaldes to talk with the sellers and saw that it was in the center of food products and had a beautiful building, even though it needed a complete redo because “it was not who we are.”
They did this in partnership with Pillows Hotels, a small collection of residential-style boutique properties in the Netherlands and Belgium. Despite their name, the hotels have a strong emphasis on gastronomy, with many of their restaurants recommended by Michelin or Gault & Millau. (To be fair, the beds are pretty good too.)
They changed the layout of the restaurant and the garden that it overlooks and adapted it to 2020s fine dining trends. Guests take their first drink and snacks on sofas in a lounge, then pass through an aging room on their way to the kitchen, where the chefs prepare a dish for them to consume while standing and watching.
Only then do they move to the dining room, which was reimagined by Studio Linse, a firm known for its work on Rijks Restaurant in Amsterdam and the Royal Opera House in London. The design, all soft blues and grays, was inspired by the region, and the layout of the bespoke sofas that form the seating for the half-dozen or so dining tables is reminiscent of a collection of islands.
The restaurant sits on a peninsula that
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