The Swiss Alps are famous for being a winter wonderland, but there was plenty to do when I visited in the fall
26.11.2023 - 13:51
/ insider.com
/ Winter Wonderland
Switzerland is a perfect winter destination, with the snowy Alps hosting some of the world's best skiing in cozy little towns.
But don't rule it out at a vacation destination for the fall.
I traveled through the Swiss Alps in early October, as the mountainsides were just starting to change color, and I thought autumn was a great time to visit.
St. Moritz is a winter ski playground for the wealthy — but, in the fall, it's a sleepy hamlet surrounded by green slopes and valleys.
I took a leisurely electric bike ride from the middle of town, alongside a creek, through the pines and larches, up to the Morteratsch Glacier.
I'm no mountain biker, so I probably wouldn't have done this if it weren't for e-bikes and Luca Ricou, the helpful technical manager at St. Moritz Ski School.
At one point, we turned off the electric component of the bikes so that I could experience peddling without that boost.
It was really hard work. I'm not in bad shape, but I would have moved much, much slower on a regular bike.
Some ski schools are diversifying their business and offering guided biking and hiking in the winter, too, as the planet warms and less snow falls.
On a different day, in the town of Nendaz in the French-speaking region of the Swiss Alps, I paid 15 Swiss Francs (about $17) to ride a gondola up the mountain.
I got a view over the Alps that I could never in town or on the train. I could see glaciers in the distance.
There are a number of gondolas like this throughout Switzerland, and you can ride them most of the year for a small fee.
If I were really ambitious I probably could've gone skydiving or paragliding.
I saw a lot of people doing that as I looked out over the mountains.
I stayed in the valley town of Sion for a few days.
There were hiking trails through the vineyards and hillsides there, but I wanted to take advantage of the mountain views, so I took a 30-minute bus ride up the mountain to the town of Nendaz.
From there, the gondola took me to the top of the ski slope, where there were a number of trails to choose from.
I could've trekked 14 miles over a mountain ridge, but I only had a few hours before sunset, so I chose an easy 7-mile stroll down the mountainside back to Nendaz.
The trail went through a few small villages and past one restaurant with stunning views. I stopped there for lunch.
I can't usually stop for a full meal like that on a hike in the US, even if it's a short and easy one.
I don't know where I would get deer or boar at a restaurant in the US — certainly not in the middle of a hike — so I was happy to be in the Swiss Alps when these game meats were in season.
On a similar note, hunting also seems popular at this time of year in the Alps.
I encountered two hunters in the woods