San Sebastián was voted the second best city in the world by you in the 2023 Readers' Choice Awards. We sought out one of the best-loved restaurants in the city to uncover the secrets of its most famous foodie export.
When you think of internet virality or A-list stardom, a pudding is not the first thing that typically comes to mind. The burnt Basque cheesecake, however, has reached every corner of the globe, from the pages of the New York Times to the Cheesecake Factory menu. But it got its start in a minuscule bar in the small coastal town of San Sebastián, Spain.
The burnt Basque cheesecake has reached every corner of the globe, from the pages of the New York Times to the Cheesecake Factory menu.
Brothers Eladio and Antonio Rivera founded La Viña in 1959; a humble, family-run pintxo bar in the heart of San Sebastián’s old town. Together with their wives, Carmen and Conchi, the brothers worked long hours behind the bar—if there were customers, no matter the hour, they served them. Eventually, Eladio and Carmen took the reigns, and their son Santi began to work in the family business.
Brothers Eladio and Antonio Rivera founded La Viña in 1959; a humble, family-run pintxo bar in the heart of San Sebastián’s old town.
It was the late 1980s, and Spain was recovering from years of dictatorship and economic oppression. San Sebastián’s culinary star was on the rise, and Santi Rivera was experimenting in the bar’s kitchen, eventually developing the cheesecake heard around the world.
Here, we sit down with Santi in San Sebastián’s Old Town to find out how it happened, what makes this cheesecake so special, and what is in the future for the world’s hottest pudding.
Before you worked full-time in the bar, were you studying or working in something else?
Well, I didn’t have work at the time. I actually studied to be an electrician, and nobody was hiring. So I started working with my father here in the bar, and eventually, I realized that if someday I wanted to take over the restaurant, I should learn to cook. If I didn’t learn how to cook, I wouldn’t have any future… just being a barman, well, it’s not enough. I started to study cooking from books… in those days, there weren’t really schools. Thanks to books and TV shows like those of Karlos Arguiñano and Pedro Subijana, I watched and learned from them. I’m not a spectacular cook, but I’m a good one and a good restaurateur.
Santi Rivera, fourth from left, with his team at La Viña
Was your mother the one who cooked in the bar and at home?
Yes.
And you took over in 1987?
I have been working here since 1987. At that time, the most important thing was to just work. We didn’t have employees. I liked it a lot more than I expected, and then I started to take
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