“When I was small, it was all very traditional,” muses 69-year-old Prapapan Sritrai as she shows me around her workspace, where huge vats of bubbling, inky-blue liquid are being stirred by her husband. Auntie Ngeam, as she’s known locally, is one of a third generation of indigo artisans in a family descended from the Phuan, a people known for their handwoven fabrics. A sizeable Phuan community, originally from Laos, settled in Phrae, in northern Thailand, after being displaced from their homeland when the borders of Siam were expanded in the late 19th century, bringing their indigo craftsmanship with them. Auntie Ngeam’s Tardis-like indigo studio is located down a slim alley in Ban Thung Hong, a village on the outskirts of Phrae, almost equidistant between Chiang Mai and the Laos border. Here, where the green rolling hills are dissected by the Yom River and its tributaries, the acanthus and indigofera tinctoria plants central to indigo production flourish. Indigo — and, specifically, the production of dark-blue mo hom shirts, a common uniform for rural and agricultural workers in Thailand — became a key industry in Phrae after the demise of the local teak industry following the Second World War.
These New Hotels Could Turn Bangkok Into A Luxury Destination
02.09.2023 - 11:13 / forbes.com
When Edmund Jenkins visited Bangkok recently, he knew he had to stay at the Mandarin Oriental.
"It's an icon of luxury and sophistication," says Jenkins, who runs a German tour company.
Sure, rates start at $470 a night at the historic hotel, but he says it's worth the money. The staff is extra attentive, the facilities are first-rate, and the recent upgrades, such as a new wellness center and spa, make it a must-visit resort.
"There's also a state-of-the-art fitness studio where you can maintain your fitness regime while enjoying panoramic views of the river," he says.
The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok also has two Michelin-starred restaurants and an authentic Thai dining experience with a cultural dance presentation that draws visitors from around the world.
Oh, and it also has a little competition.
The Mandarin Oriental has ruled Bangkok's hotel scene for more than a century as the city's standard-bearer for luxury. But new upscale hotels have come on the scene lately, and there are about to be even more. Several high-end properties are under development in Bangkok that could cement the city's reputation for luxury accommodations.
Bangkok's hotel scene started to undergo a massive transformation in 2018, according to observers. That's when developers began to realize that there was an appetite for more luxury accommodation and meeting spaces in the Thai capital. At the same time, it began to shed its image as a backpacker's paradise as budget travelers moved to other cities in Thailand, such as Phuket and Chiang Mai.
That led to a boom in luxury hotel developments, which included projects by Anantara, Four Seasons, Capella and independent upscale properties like The Siam. The focal point for these resorts was the riverfront, but luxury hotel developers did not limit themselves to that popular area.
There's also a lot of variety, say lodging insiders.
"Some of the luxury hotels, you go there to be seen," explains Nick Downing, general manager of The Siam, a boutique luxury property on the river. "Others will offer a more private experience."
Hotel experts say there have been two waves of luxury hotel development. One started before the pandemic and included some of the new properties I featured in my story about Bangkok's latest luxury properties. Some of them opened just as the world started to shut down, so they are now regaining their momentum.
A second post-pandemic wave of new luxury hotels, set to open in 2024 and 2025, is starting to come into view. And many Bangkok hotel insiders are wondering how the market will respond. Are there enough luxury hotel rooms? Too many? And how will this affect the incumbents?
The Mandarin Oriental was part of the first wave, having undergone a 10-month renovation
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