With its crystal clear lake and rugged snow-capped mountains, Lucerne has long been one of Switzerland’s most popular destinations for an alpine retreat. Europe’s upper strata were drawn to the alps as early as the 1760s, for mountaineering and hiking. But Lucerne really took off in the 19th century, following the opening of the first hotel in 1835, the expansion of alpine health resorts and Queen Victoria visiting the town for a long summer retreat in 1868 as she mourned the death of her husband.