Travel The World Of Olive Oil With Oleologist Nicholas Coleman

18.12.2023 - 15:36 / forbes.com

My love of olive oil- high-quality extra-virgin olive oil to be exact- can be credited solely to one person, and his name is Nicholas Coleman.

I met him almost a decade ago at Eataly in the Flatiron District when he was working in the store’s olive oil department as the Chief Oleologist. I told him that I wanted to buy a bottle of great olive oil, and he replied by saying, “What does that mean? There are so many fantastic oils out there, and they’re all great in a unique way.”

Did I want a buttery and mild olive oil or one that was bold and peppery with a throat itching quality? Did I want to use it to dip bread in, toss it with salads or drizzle it on steaks? Nicholas taught me that each oil has its own purpose and that my personal palate also figures in.

I ended up walking out with three different oils and have displayed a collection of several on my kitchen counter ever since then.

Nicholas has since left Eataly to launch his own olive oil company in collaboration with Dan Amatuzzi, who is an expert on wine and has a pedigree that includes jobs at Del Posto and Jean Georges. Nicholas, for his part, graduated at the top of his class from The National Organization of Olive Oil Tasters and has taught courses on it for Cornell, Yale, Bon Appetit and many other venerable names.

Their venture, now thriving, is called Grove and Vine and offers exceptional olive oil from both hemispheres in collaboration with various producers who they know and admire. As Nicholas likes to say, “We literally chase the harvest to bring the freshest olive oil to you.”

Grove and Vine releases its oils four times a year and also offers a membership model for those like me who are always looking for their next olive oil fix.

Nicholas recently introduced me to six producers from all corners of the world who were all new to me but have now become a part of my regular olive oil rotation.

I can describe them for myself, but Nicholas is the real expert here and can also explain the nuances and tasting notes of each one.

His selections follow:

PRODUCER:

Alto Olives

REGION:

Peelwood, New South Wales, Australia

Founded by Robert Victor Armstrong, Alto Olives makes oil using fifteen European cultivars, Nicholas says. “Primarily Greek Koroneiki/Kalamata, Tuscan Frantoio/Leccino, Spanish Arbequina but also the rare localized Hardy’s Mammoth,” he says. He describes the Novello EVOO has having “aromas of green banana, and a taste of delicate herbs and ginger. The finish is peppery.” He goes on explain, “The cause of this peppery sensation - considered an attribute of high quality olive oil - is oleocanthal, a natural phenolic compound that has both anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.”

PRODUCER:

Laconiko

REGION:

Trinisa