I was born and raised in Glasgow, the largest city in Scotland.
Want to take an extended hike along Scotland’s east coast? Here’s how
30.09.2023 - 00:45 / lonelyplanet.com / East Coast
The east coast north of Inverness is a part of far north Scotland that many visitors whizz past on their way around the North Coast 500, eager to press on to the high drama of the west.
Their loss. For while its charms might be less in-your-face than better-known parts, the east coast is a region that rewards time and exploration – making it perfect for slow travel. Best of all, you’ll often have its quiet corners all to yourself.
I first came here on a fleeting visit of my own, but the impression I was left with – of huge, constantly changing skies, tucked-away fishing villages and strands of golden sand – was enough to convince me to return at a slower pace.
In a part of Scotland often referred to as “remote,” I was surprised to find that the east coast is remarkably well connected by public transport, with buses from Inverness running along its entirety and trains an option along some of the way, too.
I began my journey in the seaside village of Golspie, two hours north of Inverness by train, from where a six-mile walk led me past elegant Dunrobin Castle; an Iron Age broch (a kind of round tower unique to Scotland); and sunbathing seals to Brora, home to one of the region’s best beaches. From here, I took a bus north to Wick, using the old fishing town as a base to walk the craggy coastline at a leisurely pace.
My final stop was John O’Groats, whose regular busloads of tourists can feel like the antithesis of slow travel. Yet it proved to be an excellent starting point for walking the north coast to the shell beaches, seabird colonies and jagged sea stacks around Duncansby.
Traveling like this isn’t without its challenges, not least because the transport options are generally limited to just a handful of services a day (at most). But with careful planning, you can link up coastal walks with leisurely bus and train hops, and feel better connected to this mesmerizing landscape of sea and sky.
Here’s how to plan a trip up the east coast of far north Scotland.
Match up bus and train schedules to your walking plans.
First things first: consult the bus and train timetables so you know where public transport can get you to. The buses hit many more of the east coast’s villages and towns than the trains do, which swerve some way inland between Helmsdale and Wick.
Next, take a look at the John O’Groats Trail: this 147-mile walking route between Inverness and (you’ve guessed it) John O’Groats runs almost entirely along the coast, past golden swathes of sand, pebbly coves and dark, brooding cliffs. The website handily breaks down the trail into manageable sections, making it easy to factor in a day of walking between two stops on the bus route – though be aware that the quality and strenuousness of the path can
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