What You Need To Know About Harvesting Saffron In Abruzzo, Italy

03.11.2023 - 09:41 / forbes.com

Saffron, a spice derived from the Crocus sativus flower, is most commonly associated with Asia and the Middle East. But saffron crocus thrive around the Mediterranean, including Italy, where they don’t only exalt local dishes, but also uplift local communities.

Saffron has a long history. A precious spice believed to have originated in Iran in the 10^th century BC, it has journeyed along trade routes ever since. Saffron is cited in historical writings like Ovid’s poetry and the Bible, and it was a popular coloring agent in antiquity. The Ancient Egyptians used saffron for cooking and medicinal purposes, and Cleopatra favored the spice for its cosmetic purposes, as the yellow pistils of the flower have illuminating properties on the skin.

Today, most saffron is mainly cultivated in Iran and India where it flavors a variety of rice dishes and sweets jalebi and halva. In Europe, Spain and Greece lead the saffron production, though Italy, too, has a history of cultivating the spice. Milan’s signature dish “risotto allo zafferano” — a classic comfort food often served with osso buco (braised veal shank) — is one of the country’s most famous dishes and most households have a tiny vial of saffron threads to infuse sauces and broths with the fragrant aroma.

In Italy, saffron cultivation is concentrated in Abruzzo, specifically in the Navelli highlands surrounding L’Aquila. Saffron was one of many herbs and spices traded along the Silk Road, and its arrival in Italy is likely due to a Dominican monk who brought the spice over from Spain in the 14^th century.

Legend has it that he was so enamored by the Crocus flower’s bright purple petals, he brought the bulbs over in an umbrella when he came to settle in the small hilltop town of Navelli. As it happens, the region was the perfect breeding ground for the beautiful flower, as the Crocus sativus requires ample sunlight, low rainfall and well-draining soil. For centuries, Abruzzo produced the spice which was sold throughout the country and the continent.

Today, Abruzzo’s saffron is safeguarded by a cultural association called Le Vie dello Zafferano — the Paths of Saffron — and the spice received a Protected Denomination of Origin status in 2005. This means the 50-odd producers residing in 13 villages must adhere to production guidelines in order to guarantee quality controls and purity.

It takes 200 blooms to produce 1 gram of saffron, and the process is long and arduous. The harvest happens during the month of October which sees producers go out at dawn each morning to gently pick the crocus flowers, one by one, by hand. Once they’ve filled their baskets, they must gentle remove the red pistils from the flower: these are later dried over a wood-burning grill