American tourists don't always have the best reputation abroad, but it can be amusing to see how other countries view US culture.
21.07.2023 - 07:59 / roughguides.com / What You Need
Tokyo's Shinjuku district is known for its skyscrapers, salarymen and a time-warped tumble of drinking dens known as the Golden Gai bars. This perennial haunt of Tokyo’s suited businessmen has been growing in popularity with international visitors – and for good reason.
While the city offers an endless range of flashy, neon-drenched clubs, bars and lounges, only in Golden Gai can you see vestiges of the Japanese capital’s postwar nightlife. The vibe here is down to earth, locally minded and still wonderfully bizarre.
If this is your first time or you're not keen on going by yourself, considerjoining a small group tour to Shinjuku, including the red-light district and of course the famous Golden Gai bars.
The Golden Gai district is a rare find in Tokyo. A place that, through some combination of luck and stubbornness, hasn’t been bulldozed and redeveloped. A couple of blocks square, it's packed with tiny, slightly ramshackle but buzzing bars.
The number of punters who can squeeze into each establishment ranges from about five to thirty. Each bar has its own hook, whether outlandish decor (from troll toys to hospital-themed uniforms), a signature drink or the promise of free karaoke at all hours.
Be bold when it comes to exploring Golden Gai's alleys © Silvan Reiser/Shutterstock
Most of the bars accept visitors now, but some still only welcome regular customers. Check to see if there’s a price list or anything in English posted out front and you'll be good. Alternatively, just walk in, smile politely and see what reaction you get; chances are that if it’s a regulars-only bar you’ll be told there’s no room (empty seats or not).
Most of the bars have a cover charge, though a small number are free to enter. Sheer physical proximity means you may end up making friends with your neighbour – it’s amazing how quickly the language barrier disappears after a glass or three of shōchū.
Talking of the language barrier, if you’re up to it then a bit of basic vocab will definitely be well-received. “O-susume” is “recommendation” – a surefire way to make a new friend. The simple but polite way to order is “[drink] o kudasai”. Finally, most vitally of all, be sure to make judicious use of “oishii” or “umai” (“delicious”) and, of course, “kanpai!” (“cheers!”).
If you’re nervous about accidentally wandering into a regulars-only bar, start at one of the better-known gaijin (foreigner) friendly establishments.
Arriving via Yasukuni-dōri, the first bar you’ll reach is Champion. It’s large and has no cover charge, but the karaoke might put you off your drinks. Another popular choice is the plush Albatross, which has a rooftop terrace with impressive views of Tokyo.
To really get a feel for Golden Gai, though, you need to head away
American tourists don't always have the best reputation abroad, but it can be amusing to see how other countries view US culture.
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