A British Airways flight was forced to make a U-turn when it was minutes away from landing at Tel Aviv's Ben Gurion Airport on Wednesday.
Where to eat in Tel Aviv, Israel's multicultural food capital
22.09.2023 - 16:07 / nationalgeographic.com
When Khalil Karawan buys his chickpeas, he does it not in grams or kilos, but in tonnes. It takes such elephantine quantities to keep up with the fierce demand at Abu Hassan, the renowned hummus empire started by his grandfather in the 1950s. The business has grown so much from its humble food cart origins that 27-year-old Khalil can now sell thousands of plates each day across three locations in the ancient district of Jaffa. And when I visit his Shivtei Israel Street outpost one Friday morning, I arrive at peak hour.
“Our way is special; no one knows how to make hummus like us,” Khalil says as crowded tables of people tuck into tahini-rich mouthfuls. “We start cooking the first batches at 4am, so they’re ready for when we open at 7am.” I run a chunk of pillowy bread through his creamy masabacha — hummus studded with whole chickpeas, flecked with parsley and paprika and glinting with lemon-hued oil. At Khalil’s insistence, I dress it with pickled chilli sauce, the final kick in a riot of zingy richness.
It’s perhaps no revelation that Tel Aviv nails hummus, one of the most famed Middle Eastern dishes. Yet Israel’s seaside city holds more for hungry travellers than chickpea dip. Founded in 1909, this sweep of Bauhaus buildings and glossy skyscrapers has since engulfed its neighbour to the south — the biblical port of Jaffa, one of humanity’s oldest settlements. Just as Tel Aviv fuses old and new so, it also acts as one big culinary laboratory, with immigration from every corner of the globe fuelling its vibrant food scene. You can find everything from world-class sushi to New York-style brasseries here. And there’s no better time to get a taste of it than during the celebratory buzz of Friday, as practising Jews go out revelling before sunset, when Shabbat and its 25 hours of rest begin.
“Eat, eat! We’ll make you stay to clean if you don’t finish!”, a server at Abu Hassan says, gently teasing me about my half-eaten dish of hummus. It’s 11am, and the guide I’m due to meet, Karl Walter, born and raised in Tel Aviv, has promised me a lot to eat today. Despite my greed I don’t want to fill up too early. When the server turns his back, I duck out into the street to meet Karl in the warm sunshine.
Jaffa is humming with weekend promise. Around the central flea market, rows of honey-hued shops glint with silver antiques, wrinkled men pour over games of backgammon, and groups of friends clink frosty beers above overflowing restaurant tables. Here, the world is laid out on a plate: crowds queue for Iraqi sabich, a pitta sandwich brimming with fried aubergine, boiled egg and tahini; for Persian malabi (milk pudding) topped with rosewater jelly; and for Hungarian sweet pastries filled with poppy-seed paste. Karl
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