Where to Play, Eat, and Stay in Switzerland's Majestic Engadin Valley
26.02.2024 - 20:12
/ matadornetwork.com
Fairy-tale villages. Alpine lakes as blue as cobalt. Regal ibex standing sentry on misty ridges — the Engadin Valley, a narrow ravine cutting across the Swiss canton of Graubünden, is one the most sublime pockets of the Alps. Long a coveted destination for skiers, hikers, and outdoor adventurers, the valley has culinary verve and cultural cachet worthy of its scenic splendor. From the glitzy, celebrity-studded ski resorts of St. Moritz — the St. Tropez of the Alps — to sleepy mountain hamlets frozen in time since the medieval era, the Engadin mesmerizes.
The isolated valley, located three hours by train from Zurich, is also the traditional homeland of the Romansh, one of Europe’s most enigmatic ethnolinguistic groups. As with the Basques of the Pyrenees Mountains, the Romansh’s precise origins remain shrouded in mystery, but evidence suggests they speak the oldest language in the Alps. While recognized as Switzerland’s fourth official tongue, Romansh is today an endangered language spoken by less than one percent of the Swiss population. In the Engadin Valley, however, exuberant Romansh festivals, soulful cuisine, and warm hospitality still flourish.
While one continuous valley, the Engadin is traditionally divided into the two geographical sections: the Unterengadin (the lower Engadin) and the Oberengadin (the upper Engadin). As the name indicates, the Unterengadin is slightly closer to sea level; this half is wilder and less densely populated than the Oberengadin, which is home to the valley’s largest city, St. Moritz. Renting a car is the easiest way to explore the valley, but if you’re trying to save Swiss francs, buses and trains are easy and convenient, too.
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Begin your visit to the Engadin by plumbing the annals of Romansh history in the Biblioteca Rumantscha, a museum library housing the largest collection of Romansh literature in the world. A stately example of the Engadin’s vernacular architecture — trapezoidal roofs to slough off snow; small windows to conserve heat; and heavy, carved wooden doors — the building was originally an aristocratic home built in 1595. The museum preserves the grandeur of the artwork, tapestries, and furniture of the original residence, and placards and videos explain the fascinating history of the Romansh people and language.
Biblioteca Rumantscha: Mulins 2, 7503 Samedan, Switzerland
Photo: Corvatsch AG
After all the spirited gobbling and swilling the Engadin offers, a beautiful hike is a welcome counterbalance. The trail between Alp Languard, a snug mountainside restaurant, and Muottas Muragl, a peak that also lends its name to a stunning hotel at the summit of Vadret Mountain, takes about three hours.