Tell people you are going to Emilia-Romagna, the food-rich region in northern Italy, and unsolicited recommendations follow: places to linger over pistachio ravioli and mortadella sandwiches, lasagna berberè and “really good” gelato.
“Possibly the greatest food city in the world,” one friend decreed about Bologna, the largest city in Emilia-Romagna, as well as its capital. “Beyond charming and crazy delicious,” said another.
By the time I arrived in Bologna in late March, my brain was swimming: Would it be better to do aperitivo at the place beneath the portico or the one in the alleyway? Would it be sacrilege to get pizza? When would I have time for a mortadella sandwich? Would there be anything to do besides eat?
The truth about Emilia-Romagna is that you cannot help but eat well, whether it’s at a Michelin-starred restaurant — this is the home of the chef and restaurateur Massimo Bottura, whose temple of modernist cuisine, Osteria Francescana, put the region on the food-lover’s map when it opened three decades ago — or a humble bar on a cobblestone street.
“We don’t have the Dolomites,” said Mr. Bottura, while piloting one of his many Emilia-Romagna-made vehicles (a Maserati) down a country road. “We don’t have the Amalfi Coast. But we have the countryside. We have a food valley.”
Then there are the hikes to take, the artisans to visit, the cars to drive — Ferrari and Lamborghini, as well as Maserati, all manufacture here — and the wine to taste. As I prepared for my trip, the list of things to eat, see and do seemed endless.
My first stop, shortly after landing in Bologna from Los Angeles, was dinner at Al Sangiovese, a warm, wood-paneled restaurant on Vicolo del Falcone. I was joined by my friend Amanda Montell, an author and podcast host who was spending a month in the city.
“I wanted to stay somewhere that felt quaint but open,” she said. “I love the university vibe.” The University of Bologna, founded in 1088, is among the oldest in the world; the blocks surrounding it thrum in a way that evoke the Greenwich Village streets around New York University.
Having recently deplaned, and having not seen a salad in days, I requested a side of verdure — green vegetables — with my tortellini en brodo (tortellini in broth). Ms. Montell communicated this to our server in Italian. The server’s response came in English.
“With the main? No, no, no,” she said, shaking her head with reproach. “The tortellini is the king of the pasta,” a king who, apparently, eschews consorts. “No vegetables.”
A bit of back and forth resulted in a plate of steamed spinach arriving with our “antipasti” of mortadella, prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano-Reggiano (three of the region’s D.O.P. or Denominazione di Origine Protetta
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When Khalil Karawan buys his chickpeas, he does it not in grams or kilos, but in tonnes. It takes such elephantine quantities to keep up with the fierce demand at Abu Hassan, the renowned hummus empire started by his grandfather in the 1950s. The business has grown so much from its humble food cart origins that 27-year-old Khalil can now sell thousands of plates each day across three locations in the ancient district of Jaffa. And when I visit his Shivtei Israel Street outpost one Friday morning, I arrive at peak hour.
Margate doesn’t stay still for long. A streak of seaside nostalgia runs through the Kent town, but this is a place with its focus squarely on the future. Take Dreamland, a retro-themed pleasure park that draws visitors to its vintage carousel and scenic railway (Britain’s oldest roller coaster) as much as its Pride celebrations and a newly installed Banksy mural. Aroseaund the bay, modern art exhibitions rotate through the Turner Contemporary gallery, while kids play with buckets and spades on the beach in its shadow. New openings butt up against the resort’s kiss-me-quick attractions, and nowhere is this more apparent than along the seafront. Amusement arcades and shops selling inflatables squeeze in between microbreweries and cocktail bars, and restaurants serve both cod and chips and miso-battered tofu.
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You might think picking your own produce is only possible in the warm and berry-laden summer, but many orchards, farms and pick-your-owns stay open right up until October, meaning you can make the most of late-cropping fruits such as apples, pears and plums, and vegetables like carrots, onions and runner beans, as well as the UK’s now quite incredible range of gourds and pumpkins. Some PYOs require you to pre-book your slot, and opening times depend on the day’s weather, and indeed the season’s — crops may come early or late, or all at once, so it’s worth checking beforehand, especially on social media, as most farms post up-to-date crop news. Finally, wear sturdy shoes, as even in dry weather, watering can mean mud and puddles — and try not to gorge yourself before paying up for your pickings.
The northern Italian region of Emilia-Romagna boasts renowned automotive heritage, being the birthplace of Enzo Ferrari, the visionary behind one of the world’s most iconic sports car brands. His biopic Ferrari was presented at the 80th Venice International Film Festival last week, with Adam Driver starring as Enzo Ferrari, before premiering in the UK on 26th December 2023. To celebrate its release, Emilia Romagna calls automotive enthusiasts and adventurers to follow in Enzo’s footsteps with a visit to the region. Below are five experiences visitors can do to immerse themselves in Emilia Romagna’s peerless motorsport culture.
Venice plans to experiment with an admission fee of 5 euros ($5.35) for day trippers next year to try to manage the flow of tourists drawn to its historic canals, the city council said on Tuesday.