World rituals - eight captivating celebrations
21.07.2023 - 08:21
/ roughguides.com
One of the great pleasures of travel is observing — and learning from — the locals. Here's a selection of awe-inspiring rituals from around the world, that feature dancing, theatrics and a little sacrificial slaughter.
When it comes to the rich folk heritage of Eastern Europe, few events carry the visceral punch of Bulgaria’s annual kukeri processions. In archaic rites dating back to pre-Christian times, men gather to scare off the evil spirits of winter by donning shaggy animal disguises and dancing themselves into a state of exhaustion. The rites are still enacted in the villages south of the Bulgarian capital Sofia, and are easy to catch if you know when and where to go. January 14 is the big date in the Pernik region, where each village has a troupe of kukeri or “mummers”, charged with cleansing the community of evil and ensuring fertility in the coming year.
The celebrations take place every January 14 in the villages of Yardzhilovtsi, Kosharevo and Banishte. The Sofia-based travel agent Lyuba Tours (lyuba.tours) can organize day-trips to see them.
Seen from the rugged heights of Hangman’s Rock, the scale of the pageantry is breathtaking. Column upon column advances across the cattle-cropped sward onto the parade grounds of Ludzidzini, the Queen Mother’s royal village, before dissolving into the pulsating mass of bodies already assembled there. Panning out towards the horizon you see still more arriving, snaking like huge, multi-coloured millipedes over the contours of the Ezulwini Valley.
Soon you are down among the spectators on the valley floor, where at close quarters it all becomes rather more real. Ranks of dancers bear down from all sides. Bare-breasted girls stamp and sway in step, anklets rattling, as the confusion of colour and flesh blurs into a chanting kaleidoscope. Ahead of each column strides its warrior escort, adorned with cow tails and clutching knob-stick and shield. His glance is contemptuous of cameras, although the girls behind him seem to be taking things less seriously: there is giggling in the ranks, flashed smiles and shared jokes. It’s Swaziland’s biggest holiday, and after seven days of tramping the hillsides, cutting reeds and camping out, they’re determined to enjoy the party.
The Umhlanga is held in late August or early September, the precise date varying from year to year. There is plentiful accommodation in the nearby Ezulwini area and admission to the festivities is free – though you will need a permit for photography. Find out more at www.welcometoswaziland.com.
Taos © Angel McNall Photography/Shutterstock
From the direction of Taos Mountain, which stands beyond the soft edges of the ancient pueblo, you hear a distant drone. The murmuring crowd goes quiet. The