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You won’t find these Hawaiian hiking trails in a guidebook
12.12.2023 - 17:41 / nationalgeographic.com
Hawaiian legend tells the story of the goddess Hi‘iaka, who travels down a dusty trail on the windward coast of the Big Island of Hawai‘i to a beach where she meets her sisters, including Pele, the volcano deity.
And there, on this remote beach in Puna, Hi‘iaka danced what some consider the first hula.
The path to Hā‘ena Beach, also called Shipman Beach, is still intact. Sometimes muddy and slippery, the 2.9-mile trail deposits visitors at an uncrowded shore known for its fine sands amid an otherwise rugged and rocky coast.
During ancient times, this was one of many footpaths (ala hele) across the Hawaiian Islands that linked coastal fishing villages. In the mid-1800s the trail was straightened and widened to accommodate horses and wheeled carts.
Eventually, as people moved inland, these seaside settlements were abandoned and the trail neglected. Today few people who venture along the Puna Trail to get to Hā‘ena’s white sands know about its cultural importance. “It doesn’t seem like much,” says Jackson Bauer, who works for Nā Ala Hele Trail and Access Program, which manages public resources related to trail maintenance. “But imagine: Hi‘iaka walked on that trail.”
One of the last pieces of legislation approved by Queen Lili‘uokalani, before the controversial overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy, was the Highways Act of 1892. It states that any trail or road then in existence in Hawai‘i belongs to the government, even on privately owned land. This further implies that these trails—which were used by ancient Hawaiians to gather food, wage battle, get to places of worship, and more—are for public use, accessible to all.
This law came at a critical time for establishing Native Hawaiian land rights. In 1848 the Great Māhele, proposed by King Kamehameha III, redistributed about four million acres of land, abolishing the feudal system and leading to private landownership. Passed before Hawai‘i became a United States territory and state, it ensured that the public—and most importantly, Native Hawaiians—could continue to visit cultural sites.
Thanks to the queen’s foresight, the state now manages hundreds of miles of public trails that lead to heritage areas and native forests or follow meandering streams or tree-lined ridges. While many are now roads and highways—bustling Ala Moana Boulevard on O‘ahu, for example, was a centuries-old footpath that ran along the southern coastline—others are forgotten trails you won’t find in hiking guidebooks. They’re often less popular than the more modern summit or ridge hikes with sweeping views and parking lots. But that’s part of their appeal.
(Explore 3,000-year-old hiking trails on this remarkable Greek island.)
Identifying these footpaths and roads is an element of the
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