10 Best things you can only do in Lyon

17.05.2024 - 09:13 / lonelyplanet.com

Anna is the author of the Lyon chapter for our latest France guidebook. Here she shares the best experiences you can find in Lyon.

Lyon passes remarkably under-the-radar, but once you’ve been, it’s near impossible not to go back. Vast parks, two rivers and a vibrant (and often al fresco) dining scene all feature prominently in a city that’s small enough to get around on foot.

From May until September, Lyon largely bathes in sunshine, the péniches (barge bars) spring to life and the riverbanks become giant picnic spots. In winter, the proximity to the Alps is tangible – skiers stomp through the Metro in the early hours, and the snow-capped mountain peaks are visible from the city heights.

Lyon’s two hills are known as the working hill (Croix-Rousse) and the praying hill (Fourvière), the former being the old silk-weaving district (hence the "working") and the latter crowned by Fourvière Basilica. 

The views from both are spectacular. To reach Fourvière, either zig-zag through the Jardin de la Rosaire from Vieux Lyon or take the funicular. On a clear day, Mont Blanc is visible from the square next to the basilica. There’s a metro line running to Croix-Rousse, too, but if you tackle it on foot, you’ll pass painted staircases, street art and plenty of boutiques, bars and restaurants to break the climb. At the top, stop for a drink at Barabaar, where you can enjoy views of Rhône, Part Dieu’s towers and Fourvière.

One of the biggest joys of Lyon is visiting its two rivers — you’re never far from the water. The Saône is quieter and you can rent kayaks or motorboats to explore it, but unfortunately, one side of the river is still multi-story car parks from the days when the concrete revolution threatened to destroy the most beautiful parts of the city. The Rhône is more lived in, with a cycle route running all along the bank, and péniche (barge) bars that brim over at a whiff of sunshine. In summer, grab a cheap bottle of wine to enjoy on one of the little beaches just opposite Avenue Marechal Foch. Swimming is forbidden, but even if it weren’t, the river is hardly squeaky clean. Instead, head to Centre nautique Tony Bertrand for a dip in an open-air pool with views of the river and Fourvière.

Looking at your feet as you explore a new city usually would be boring, but not in Lyon, where an incognito street artist going by Ememem fills in potholes with mosaics. Their creations – known as "flacking" – are now all over Europe, but they started here. The trompe l’oeil wall murals are what the city is best known for, enormous frescoes that tell the history of a certain part of the city. The Fresque des Canuts (silk weavers’ fresco) in Croix-Rousse is one of the largest and most impressive. 

For too long, Lyon has been