After a summer of travel plagued by extreme heat, disruption and unpredictable weather, many of us are looking to holiday outside of the peak season.
14.08.2023 - 15:03 / lonelyplanet.com
Traditional food has a stronghold on Athens’ dining scene, and Greece as a whole. Widespread respect for classic dishes means that family recipes are often untampered with, even at restaurants, but contemporary newcomers have also found their voice in the sea of tradition.
Ancient Athenians were creators – the very people to thank if you’ve ever been to the theater or voted in an election – and you’ll find innovation on the food front, too. There are more daring chefs serving up modern Greek and fusion dishes, which cater more to the individual than the typical share plates Greek cuisine is founded on.
Get to know the classics first, and then enjoy them in modern forms. Here are the best dishes and drinks to sample in Athens, and where to find them.
Bread is a dominant category of Greek breakfast. Simplicity is found in a kolouri, a crisp-shelled, soft-centered bread ring covered in sesame seeds. These are vegan, as is a lot of Greek food to many people's surprise (more on that later). Kolouria (plural) are available at bakeries and street vendors – you’ll see Athenians eating them on their commutes to school or work.
If you’re after something more substantial for breakfast, go for a filo pastry pie. There are comforting cheese pies (tiropites) filled with feta, ricotta or halloumi; or often a mixture of cheeses. These can range from salty to tart, depending on the cheeses used. If you’re after a salty option, go for a halloumi-heavy pie. If you’d rather something more sour, a feta-dominant pie is the best option.
A spinach and cheese pie, called a spanakopita, is a sure (and moreish) way of getting your greens in. Those with a sweet tooth might opt for a kolokithopita – an aromatic pumpkin pie spiced with cinnamon.
Where to try them: Athens abounds with great bakeries, but as a starting point head to Takis Bakery in the Koukaki neighborhood, which has been running for three generations. Or go to The Bread Factory in Metaxourgeio to experience a mega bakery-patisserie.
Greek yogurt is another quintessential breakfast option – and an affordable one, too. If you’re purchasing yogurt from a supermarket, the brand Fage is a trusted go-to. Take note of the varying levels of fat; 2% is creamy, 5% is overdrive creamy. Enjoy on its own, with some fruit and/or a drizzle of Greek honey.
Athenians also invented the casual souvlaki bar. A quick language lesson, souvlaki is the word for "skewer", which refers to skewered meat cooked on a grill. Gyros is different – this classifies meat cooked on a rotisserie and shaved into small pieces. In Athens, you'll find both souvlaki and gyros, either served in a wrap (pita) or open on a plate (meritha).
Generally, the herbs and spices used in a souvlaki or a gyros are similar –
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