8 Hours Aboard the Caledonian Sleeper: Why You Should Ditch the Short-Haul Flight for an Overnight Train

27.05.2024 - 16:59 / cntraveler.com

As I boarded the Caledonian Sleeper with my family at Edinburgh Waverly on a cool Scottish summer night, it was difficult not to get caught up in the romantic quality of this eight-hour journey to London. The train's midnight teal exterior reflected the hue of the sky, and coupled with the vintage-y copperplate gothic font emblazoned on it, the scene felt spliced from the celluloid of a Wes Anderson film. That a kindly bellhop from The Balmoral, our hotel adjacent to the station, loaded our valises off a trolley cart did little to rein in these trappings.

And yet, by all measures, sticking my wife, Tiffan, and three-year-old daughter, Odella, on the top bunk while I climbed into a claustrophobic twin bed beneath is an insane proposition. Some might deem it a divorce wish. And though I’m typically the first to celebrate the soporific effect of a train’s gentle rocking, the suck-it-in narrowness of our compartment was giving more coffin than cradle. In fact, the train is fairly modest and it’s a far cry from Belmond's Royal Scotsman. (Next time. Next life!)

Still, while easyJet can get you from Edinburgh to London in an hour flat for $25 a pop, I would wholeheartedly advocate for this adventurous snail-paced travel option—never mind my bruised forehead and ego, lasting crick in my neck be damned.

The Caledonian Sleeper train offers two routes with stops in London, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, Aberdeen, and Fort William.

Train travel, you see, allows for more organic and immediate integration into a city—without commuting in from the exurban airport. By going overnight, you don’t lose a day Ubering out to the airfield and then shuttling back into your destination’s city center—it’s an efficient method of getting someplace while you’d otherwise be sleeping instead of burning an afternoon on short-haul travel. You also spare yourself the indignities of airport security lines, and in minimizing your pre-departure arrival, you maximize your time in the city: before hopping on our charming, if flawed, little choo-choo, we enjoyed a full day at the National Museum of Scotland, a memorable brunch at Gleaneagles Townhouse, a stroll through Princes Street Gardens, an evening visit to Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, and a civilized local dinner (not at airport prices). Despite the fact that my wife bumped her head on the ceiling when sitting up and the mediocre Lorne sausages and weak tea-bagged coffee come morning, the togetherness our little family experience proved more memorable than the logical budget option.

Truth be told, I’ve always been a train enthusiast. An erstwhile fear of flying in my teens necessitated some wildly impractical itineraries for study-abroad experiences that took me from London