Today I am where I want to be, strolling along almond-fringed beaches that, like cuffs of lace, fall from the dark sleeve of the jungle. Steam rises after a recent downpour and morning sunlight glances off cresting waves silver-threaded with the shoals of sardinella that ride their swell. Coconuts drop with a thud around me and begonia blossoms spiral slowly. This is a fecund forest of vastness that’s so alive you can practically hear the sap rising. I have been walking for more than an hour from my tented suite at the Sundy Praia retreat and seen no one. I have padded across sandbanks in the flipper trail of turtles who have come to lay eggs on these northern shores and clambered over rocky headlands. I’ve scaled the heights – and pushed through the insect drill—of the forest, into the shade of the towering oka. These trees have a presence not unlike Tolkien’s ents, those humanoid-like tree creatures. In Príncipe, it is customary to bury a newborn baby’s placenta beneath a trunk, so that everyone has a tree they consider their own. The forest is venerated and it is sacrilege to fell a tree, a belief embedded in law.
9 essential food and drink experiences to try in England
03.03.2024 - 09:15 / lonelyplanet.com
Sarnies, toad in the hole, bangers and mash – traditional English cuisine can be as hearty as the lingo is bewildering. Once you've mastered the food slang, you'll find that the dining (and drinking) offerings in England are vast, with plenty of regional specialties and individual quirks.
London is the gastronomic capital of England, with upscale dining, world cuisine and indie venues mixed with chain restaurants and cafes, plus traditional "greasy spoons." Beyond the capital, you'll encounter unique dishes, menus featuring local produce, historic pubs, plus modern microbreweries and distilleries, in villages across the country.
So now you're ready to discover what to eat and drink in England.
Feasting on a sizeable Sunday roast is a sacrosanct English experience and requires an ambitious appetite – especially if plated up by a doting grandmother. Expect large portions of roasted meat and gravy served with assorted vegetables, potatoes and Yorkshire pudding – a savory side made from a simple batter.
Traditionally a beef-heavy meal, roasts were eaten after a Sunday church service, when meat was considered more of a luxury. They've evolved over the years to encompass other meats and some creative vegetarian and vegan options. A Sunday roast is essential pub fare, and everyone has their local favorite to recommend.
Where to try it: The New Inn in St Owen's Cross, Herefordshire, is a cozy 16th-century coaching inn with a solid reputation for quality roasts packed with local produce. Enjoy a filling three-course Sunday lunch next to their warming fireplace.
Piping hot fish and chips at the seaside is a staple of British cuisine, best enjoyed after a bracing dip in the ocean. Even on blustery days, few can resist the lure of fryer-fresh chips on the promenade, devoured with a small wooden fork or grease-smeared fingers.
England's national dish typically consists of crispy battered cod or haddock, served with deep-fried chips smothered in salt and malt vinegar. You'll find this classic dish across England in "chippies" (fish and chips shops), cafes and pubs. Even posh gastro pubs will have it on the menu.
The concept of fish fried in batter is thought to have come from immigrants from Spain and Portugal , who brought over this simple cooking method before the English adopted it in the 19th century.
Where to try it: Palm Court Restaurant has a prime spot on Brighton Pier with superb sea views from its glass-fronted restaurant and bar. Order fish and chips and a glass of bubbly and enjoy the seaside ambiance in stylish surroundings.
Bangers and mash are feel-good food and a popular pub dish in England. It's a fairly simple recipe: pork or beef sausages are paired with creamy mashed potatoes
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My husband and I are trying to visit every country in the world. Spending so much time together has made us work on our relationship.
This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Emily Crider . It has been edited for length and clarity.
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