A Black Forest fairytale: riding Germany’s ‘hell valley’ railway in winter

22.01.2024 - 15:25 / theguardian.com

In the tucked away Black Forest town of Donaueschingen, the mighty River Danube begins. It rises as a clear, three metre-deep wellspring in the town centre, encircled by a stone basin sculpted with zodiac symbols. From there, the Danube – Donau in German – flows full tilt onwards for 1,771 miles to its mouth on the Black Sea, passing through the great cities of Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade.

There’s so much poetry in that journey from dark woodland to dark water. But while my trip started at this blessed pool, where the Danube begins its course east, I was heading in the opposite direction – into a part of Germany’s south-west with which I was unfamiliar.

Though the Black Forest is feted for its wild spaces, sense of remoteness and sweeping mountains – green in summer, top to bottom with snow-white thickets in the colder months – the region is easy to traverse year-round by boot, bike and Deutsche Bahn national rail. That’s good news for those who love discovering a new place by train, because the most compelling railway line here – the Höllentalbahn – begins in Donaueschingen, before rising 50 miles later in Freiburg, on the Black Forest’s western fringe. One of the steepest routes in the country, the Höllentalbahn has an equally gripping translation: the Hell Valley Railway. And I knew I was going to love it.

It’s a good time for rail travel in Germany. Last summer, Deutsche Bahn launched a monthly subscription ticket for nationwide travel on local and regional routes for €49, while super saver fares for short distances were priced at €9.90 – and this is set to continue. Car emissions charges have since been increased and passenger numbers on local services have shot up by a quarter, according to Deutsche Bahn. That sense of sustainable value was also apparent on the Höllentalbahn. My entire ride cost €16, but I broke up the 90-minute journey with multiple stops along the way.

Before I boarded, there was time to discover more of Donaueschingen. From the train station, I followed the road to Haus Fürstenberg, walking in the footsteps of the last emperor of Germany, Wilhelm II, a regular visitor to the princely residence. The grounds are filled with oak and birch, and, beyond the tree line, the palace rises like a Loire Valley chateau, its yellow facade crested with a top-hat dome. Inside, there is a stately but fun museum, home to a gilded travelling potty once owned by Napoleon.

Next door, taking over several town blocks, is Fürstenberg Brauerei, a baroque palace of a brewery from the 18th century . It was a touch too early for a pilsner, but Kaiser Wilhelm II loved it so much, the beer became his majesty’s official beverage.

My journey on the Höllentalbahn began shortly after, and following a quick