When downtown rents dropped because of the pandemic, lots of ambitious shops, cafes and restaurants ended up launching as a result. There’s a real sense of revitalisation in the city.
27.07.2023 - 17:33 / lonelyplanet.com / Art
Many people use Genoa as an entry point to explore the Italian Riviera, including the famous (and often crammed) Portofino and Cinque Terre. But missing out on the charms of the city by rushing beyond it too soon would be a mistake.
Home to one of the largest medieval town centers in the world, crisscrossed with narrow lanes (caruggi) that beg to be discovered, the city is perfect for those who want to wander and get a little lost. Put your phone away and find out for yourself if a laneway leads to the bustling port, a 6th-century cathedral, a buzzing plaza where luck might snag you a table or, on occasion, right back to where you started.
My guide Cristiana Mondo describes Genoa as a “northern city with a southern lifestyle”. The pace of life – and the pace of strolling on the sidewalk – is notably slower and more enjoyable for it. Shops often close long enough to allow locals to linger over lunch and dinner can be as late as 10pm. Take a deep breath, slow down and join the Genoese on a meander.
With its northern climate, Genoa starts to warm up in May but rarely gets the kind of heatwaves that are becoming more common in southern Europe; average temperatures in July and August usually top out at 28°C/82°F.
The most popular time to visit Genoa is on one of their Rolli Days when the doors of the Palazzi dei Rolli are thrown open to the public. During these weekends, which happen twice a year, the city is packed with visitors hungry for a peek inside the palazzos (palaces) that make the city so famous. Many of these sumptuously decorated buildings are privately owned and unavailable to the public at other times of the year.
Genoa is also home to a busy cruise port and its season generally runs from April to October. Sundays can be hectic as they're the most popular day for cruise ships to dock but the crowds tend to dissipate from 4pm onwards.
You should leave at least two days to fully explore the historic center – visit the main museums, get lost in the twisting caruggi, browse the independent shops and dawdle over aperitivos and convivial Ligurian restaurants.
However, the Genoan city boundaries stretch far beyond the old town. With four days, you could take the train to the suburb of Pegli to explore the fantastical Villa Durazzo Pallavicini Park, whose garden has been landscaped to represent an operatic journey through a path of purification, similar to Dante’s Divine Comedy (not to be confused with Villa Durazzo in Santa Margherita).
Or head to Nervi, a beachside promenade where you can enjoy the crashing waves and cliffsides without the tourist crush; instead your company will be the locals who come to stroll the promenade in the sunshine while eating slices of focaccia. Dip into the botanical gardens
When downtown rents dropped because of the pandemic, lots of ambitious shops, cafes and restaurants ended up launching as a result. There’s a real sense of revitalisation in the city.
The Portuguese discovered this remote archipelago, scattered 800 miles west of their mainland in the swirling mists of the Atlantic Ocean in the early 1500s. The Azores comprise nine islands, each a mythical, magical land of volcanoes, bubbling thermal waters, geysers of rising steam, turquoise-toned lagoons, and bottle-green lakes. With a landscape that seemed alive, it is no wonder that the population turned to the Holy Spirit for protection—an allegiance they still have today, as witnessed in the many shrines and chapels that dot the towns and villages. More than anything, devotion to the Holy Spirit is a defining element of being Azorean.
United Airlines recently introduced new, more high-tech first-class seats on some of its U.S. routes—the first update to its domestic first-class product since 2015.
International dialling code: +41 Currency: Swiss f
Say “Italian Riviera” and most people’s eyes light up. East of Genoa, the rainbow-coloured villages of Cinque Terre and bobbing superyachts of tiny Portofino are etched in travellers’ imaginations. But this is only half the story – the Riviera di Levante half. West of the Ligurian capital, skirting the coast for 150km to the French border, the Riviera di Ponente takes over, revealing beaches and wild mountain scenery every bit the equal of its sibling. And for those in the know, its mix of culture, outdoors and fine cuisine makes it irresistible.
The 2,000 year old Roman walls that encircle the city are the longest, most complete, and oldest, still standing in Britain today. A walk around the walls will take 45 minutes to an hour depending on how fast you walk and how often you stop. You can see the entire city from the walls, including the UK's oldest racecourse and the Eastgate Clock - one of the most photographed clocks in England. There’s a lovely place to stop by the river, where you can watch the boats float by while tucking into an ice cream. Take centre stage at the Roman Amphitheatre The Roma
When you think of enjoying an espresso in Italy, you probably don’t envision getting one at Starbucks. Italy is the same country that gave us the cappuccino, the macchiato, and—my personal favorite—the affogato, which comes with a big scoop of gelato. Drinking coffee in Italy is an event in itself, so it’s no wonder the country has resisted the super-sized coffee chain for so long. But with the opening of the first Starbucks in Italy, that attitude might be changing.
Italy’s Riviera di Ponente, or Western Riviera, has long attracted travelers—in the late 19th century new rail connections made it easier for well-heeled and titled English and Russians to escape their dreary winters, but before and after WWII, destinations on the Côte d'Azur and Riviera di Levante (the Eastern Riviera), like Rapallo, Portofino, and later, Cinque Terre, stepped into the spotlight, drawing celebrity names and eventually flocks of tourists.
The idea of being stuck on a giant ship in the middle of the ocean with thousands of people riddled Holden Brown with anxiety. It wasn’t just the horror stories about passengers stuck on cruise ships during the pandemic (though that was part of it).
Most people think traveling from the US to Europe means crossing the Atlantic Ocean, usually on a six-plus-hour flight. However, there’s a whole other part of Europe smack in the middle of the ocean that melds the green, rocky hillsides of the UK with the Mediterranean vibes and culture of Portugal.
Lake Como, or Lago di Como, is what the Riviera is to France: An area of the country that is so beautiful and serene it has attracted the rich and famous for centuries. (It is no secret that George Clooney has a swanky villa along the lake.) All these wealthy celebrities have managed to create a bubble of luxury around this magnificent part of northern Italy by building immense and luxurious villas along the lake’s shore, but if you’re a non-millionaire traveler who wants in on the action, worry not, there are ways to have a good and affordable time on the shore of Italy’s most famous lake.
In late 2018, we launched Rough Guides tailor-made trips, a unique travel marketplace where we connect you to local tour operators in over 70 countries worldwide. These local experts create a travel itinerary and book personalised trips for you, packed with personality and stimulating adventure.