A first-timer's guide to Patan-Lalitpur, Nepal
21.07.2023 - 08:45
/ roughguides.com
While the frenetic chaos of Kathmandu sprawls and teems across the Bagmati River to the north, Patan – or Lalitpur as it's also known – abides in the ways it always has: more peacefully, more quietly, and with an inclination towards the considered and the artistic. It’s no coincidence that Buddhism has long exerted a strong hold on the city – Buddhist enclaves in Nepal, as throughout South Asia, are often characterised by a serenity which eludes their wider, more Hindu surroundings.
Patan-Lalitpur was long an independent city-state in its own right, and it retains a distinct identity to this day. At heart, this is an artistic city, and the name Lalitpur – ‘City of Beauty’ – is richly deserved. This is the source of much of the celebrated fine metalwork that Nepal is famous for, and the architecture – all lavish temples and grand palaces – is some of the most beautiful in the whole country. Parts of the city were badly damaged in the 2015 earthquake, although on the whole it escaped lightly compared to its neighbour, Kathmandu.
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Patan-Lalitpur’s proximity to Kathmandu means it is one of the easiest places to explore in Nepal outside the capital. In fact, to walk from Kathmandu’s Durbar Square to its namesake in Patan takes just an hour, so makes an easy day trip. Linger for a few days, though, and you’ll be rewarded by the city's wealth of historic and cultural riches.
Krishna Mandir Hindu Temple in Patan's Durbar Square © Moroz Nataliya/Shutterstock
Your exploration of Patan-Lalitpur will likely begin and end in Durbar Square, the historical epicentre of the city. Like the other two Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley – in Kathmandu itself, and in Bhaktapur – the square is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It’s not hard to see why; the centuries-old buildings here have endured fires, earthquakes and invading hordes to remain standing as the finest examples of Newari architecture to be found anywhere. On the east side of the square looms the impressive Ancient Royal Palace, which dates back to the late 1600s. With its red-brick walls, tiered rooftop pavilions and latticed window screens, the palace is a shining example of traditional Nepalese architecture. At its core is a shrine to Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth and good fortune, while on its interior eaves you can spot intricate kinkinimali – little tin leaves that serve as an illustration of the city's illustrious metalwork heritage.
Head to the north wing of the palace to find the Patan Museum, dedicated to the religious art of Nepal. Exhibits include hundreds of Buddhist and Hindu