One of the best flight deals between the US and the South Pacific has just restarted for the first time since before the pandemic.
19.10.2023 - 13:13 / nationalgeographic.com
You wouldn’t know it from the sea of skyscrapers hemmed in by traffic-clogged freeways. Or from the flashy Hollywood studios, the multi-million-dollar celebrity homes or the Dior parading down Rodeo Drive. But a little over 200 years ago, Los Angeles was a wilderness, just sea and mountains and big sky. Back then, what’s now considered the quintessential US city wasn’t even in America, but in Mexico.
“In 1781, 44 settlers moved to this area from New Spain, further south,” explains Edgar Garcia, as we wander through El Pueblo on a sunny morning. A couple of blocks bookended by Downtown’s office buildings and grand Union Station, sandwiched between Chinatown and Little Tokyo, this small district is the oldest part of LA. It’s where the global metropolis was born. Now protected, the pretty, low-rise buildings and streets of El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historical Monument (the area’s full name) form the heart of the city’s Mexican-heritage community. “When the settlers arrived, this was the frontier of the frontier,” continues Edgar, the monument’s assistant manager. “They had to resettle several times before they built the church, around 1820.”
The church, along with several other early-19th-century buildings, is still here. It’s Sunday morning and families are pouring towards its whitewashed exterior, distinctly Spanish in its simple curves and tiled roof. Nearby, in a square containing a bandstand and fringed with thick-trunked trees, artisans sell sweets dusted in the Mexican lime-chilli seasoning Tajín. A plaque lists the names of the 44 founding pobladores, or settlers — mostly impoverished people driven to find a new life at the cutting edge of the Spanish empire.
El Pueblo de Los Angeles was just one of several settlements founded in the 18th century along the coast of California. In 1821, when Mexico declared independence from Spain, Alta California — as this region was then known — and its clutch of villages and religious missions also left the empire. The Mexican-American war (1846–1848) led to Alta California’s annexation and the area became a US free state. As a new, predominantly English-speaking LA Downtown grew up alongside it, El Pueblo fell into disrepair and disrepute.
"In a way, we’re lucky the area was forgotten,” says Edgar as we stroll past historic Pico House, once a grand hotel. “We still have our 19th-century buildings, which would have been knocked down otherwise.” He adds that, over time, nostalgia for LA’s Spanish past grew, and in the 1920s a wealthy Oakland woman, Christine Sterling, helped restore El Pueblo to a romantic, film-set-perfect version of Mexico. Mexican families were encouraged to open tourist-facing businesses here, some of which endure today.
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One of the best flight deals between the US and the South Pacific has just restarted for the first time since before the pandemic.
Set in the northern Baja peninsula, Valle de Guadalupe is tucked in from the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortéz, and hemmed by mountains on three sides. The valley cups the cool, ocean air drifting inland to form a Mediterranean microclimate—dry hot days, a firm afternoon breeze, cool nights—that makes Valle de Guadalupe a very good place to make wine. Indeed, this is Mexico’s wine country, home to over 150 wineries, and that same temperate microclimate that makes Valle de Guadalupe a very good place to make wine means it’s also a great place to visit year-round.
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The birthplace of tequila and mariachi music, Guadalajara plays a big part in Mexico’s cultural identity. Yet while Mexico City and Cancun pulse with visitors year-round, the capital of the west-coast state of Jalisco has retained a laid-back charm. Its streets are a mixture of grand colonial cathedrals, vendors slathering chilli sauce onto tortas ahogadas (‘drowned sandwiches’) and a sprinkling of galleries and brunch spots. And with the 11th Gay Games — an international sporting competition for LGBTQ+ athletes — being co-hosted here (along with Hong Kong) in November, there’s a fresh global focus on Guadalajara.
While Southern California cities like Santa Monica and Malibu earn abundant acclaim for their scenic beaches, they’re far from the only destinations worth visiting across Los Angeles County. Long renowned for its close ties to the film industry, Culver City has developed into one of the region’s most charming municipalities, loaded with high-end restaurants and hotels for newcomers to explore. As you plan your next visit to the Golden State, be sure to save some room on the itinerary to explore Culver City, a historic settlement that improves with each passing year.
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