A journey along Chile's Route of Parks
21.07.2023 - 08:47
/ roughguides.com
/ Pan Usa
/ Kris Tompkins
Chile has long lured the intrepid traveller but in 2018 things stepped up a level. The newly created Route of Parks – a string of Patagonian national parks – links up the country’s most remote corners, from snow-tipped volcanoes to blue-tinged hanging glaciers. Steph Dyson reports from the road.
Thumb out to the road and sat astride my dusty rucksack, I’m ready to channel my inner Bruce Chatwin. During his visit to Patagonia in the early 1980s – a journey that became the basis for his book In Patagonia – he often thumbed a lift with the locals. If only the Southern Highway had existed back then, I’m sure he would have revelled in the chance to do it here.
It wasn’t until 1988 when the 770-mile Carretera Austral, as it’s best known, was completed. This ambitious infrastructure project dates back to the Pinochet dictatorship, when 10,000 soldiers carved a line of dust into the wild, unexplored terrain of southern Chile.
Nowadays, the Carretera Austral’s up there with the Pan American when it comes to road trips – just wilder and affording an acute sense of venturing beyond the limits of civilisation.
Coyhaique and Carretera Austral © sunsinger/Shutterstock
Back in March 2017, Kris Tompkins, on behalf of Tompkins Conservation and her late husband, Doug Tompkins, made the largest donation of privately-held land in the world. Handing over one million acres to the Chilean government, who matched it with an additional nine million of federal land, overnight Patagonia became home to 85 per cent of the country’s protected lands.
The route reflects a growing focus on protecting Patagonia’s pristine landscapes, with tourism slotting carefully into this.
This act laid the foundations for the Route of the Parks; superficially, a rebranding of 1700-mile chain of seventeen national parks, from Alerce Andino National Park on the northern tip of the Carretera Austral to Cape Horn National Park at the extreme southern end of Chile. But the route, which will see swathes of private parks transformed into national parks, reflects a growing focus on protecting Patagonia’s pristine landscapes, with tourism slotting carefully into this.
As Hernán Mladinic, the Executive Director of Tompkins Conservation in Chile tells me: “tourism is a consequence of good conservation. It is only good conservation that can allow sustainable tourism.” He adds “there would be no Route of Parks, if it did not rest on a solid and vibrant national park system.”
Southern Patagonia © Shutterstock
For those who’ve visited Patagonia’s poster child, Torres del Paine National Park, carefully managing rapidly growing tourism is increasingly important. In 2017, over 260,000 visitors piled onto its narrow trails with many complaining of being unable to secure a