A tale of three castles

15.02.2024 - 12:33 / nationalgeographic.com

The UNESCO World Heritage sites of the former capital Kyoto give unforgettable insights into Japanese history, but across Japan are numerous, less heralded (and less visited) destinations that can transport travelers back in time. Be it the tales unearthed in castle ruins or fortresses that have withstood the tests of time, a journey to Japan's Kansai region and the islands of Okinawa can offer travelers fresh insights into Japan's past and the moments that shaped its future.

Between 1467 and 1567, Japan was in a state of civil war. While travelers to Japan will likely hear about Tokugawa Ieyasu, the man who would unite Japan and lead the country toward centuries of peace, there are plenty of other tales about the Sengoku-Jidai, or warring states period. Take the demise of the Asakura Clan in what's now Fukui (then Echizen), situated immediately north of Kyoto on the Sea of Japan coast. A powerful regional force, the Asakura ruled Echizen province throughout the warring states period, cementing power with the creation of Ichijodani Castle and overseeing such economic and cultural growth that their region became known as the "little Kyoto of Hokuriku" for its wealth and traditional refinement.

Then, like so many clans on Japan's bloody path to unification, it all came tumbling down. After defeat to a rival faction, their castle was destroyed and traces of the Asakura's rule gradually faded. Though not entirely. Ongoing excavations since the 1960s have unearthed the ruins of Ichijodani, giving a tantalizing glimpse of how the stronghold here would have dominated the landscape. So, too, the remains of landscaped gardens and the 2,000-plus Important Cultural Properties found on the 687-acre (278-ha) site highlight the fine arts and crafts produced under Asakura patronage. Added to that is a collection of reconstructed walls and buildings from the town that once flourished around the castle, opening a window to what life was like for the samurai and merchants of the day. That's something travelers can easily see for themselves, as the ruins are now open to the public and only a 15-minute train ride from the regional hub, Fukui Station.

Not all castles, however, shared Ichijodani's fate. Jump forward a generation and the beautifully preserved Hikone Castle in Shiga tells the story of Japan at peace, and a 200-year-plus period where samurai transitioned from pure warriors to administrators and business leaders. Completed in 1622 after a near-20-year construction project, Hikone Castle in its heyday was a symbol of Edo-era (1603-1867) peace and prosperity. Ever since, it has remained a focal point of local culture and pride.

Today, Hikone Castle is one of Japan's great remaining original fortresses, with a