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ProWein 2024: 30 Years And Three Wines That Reflect Historical Change
12.03.2024 - 07:27 / forbes.com
This week in Düsseldorf, Germany, ProWein celebrates its thirtieth year of leading trade show programming for the wine and spirits industry. It’s a massive undertaking in the “mini city” of the Messe Düsseldorf fairgrounds, with some 50,000 trade visitors and 5700 exhibitors from 60 countries.
It’s a lot of ground to cover, literally and figuratively.
I’ve learned by this point that, in my role as a very interested observer and happy wanderer through the halls, it helps exponentially to have a plan or at least a series of “tips” that provide a direction to head toward. For me, it started before it started, meaning that my first tip paid off the evening before the trade fair itself officially began, with a special producer-hosted event away from the fairgrounds and within the city of Düsseldorf. It’s fitting that this kick-off to ProWein featured Riesling, Germany’s most iconic and associated grape.
That’s where we’ll begin this list of three favorite tastes that punctuated this ProWein 2024 for me.
Normally when listing a wine we include the numerical vintage, or the year the fruit was harvested to make the wine. One of the attractions of this wine is that what’s “normal” is impossible, at least so far as listing one vintage or year: the bottle of Dreissigacker’s Vintages Riesling that was featured at this “in town” tasting actually contains wine from multiple recent vintages, much the same way that a bottle of Champagne labeled “NV” (or non-vintage) contains wine that’s been drawn from the harvest of several years. It’s a reference point for Dreissigacker but not a firmly- or blindly-held beacon, as they chart their own course very decidedly on several fronts. It’s also a choice, made now, that makes a lot of sense commercially as the brand positions itself for a future of possibly dicey harvests: blending multiple vintages of wine together helps a brand to hedge its bets, so to speak, against any one or two unfavorable climate change-influenced harvests.
The influence of climate change has made the conversation a reality about top-quality wine at higher latitudes, such as in England. English wineries have already seen their share of success in sparkling wines and, more and more, the conversation is turning to still wines from these producers. I’d had a tip from a friend about very good English Pinot Noir, and I went hunting for it at the trade show stand for Great Britain.
I found what I was looking for in the 2022 Luke’s Pinot Noir from Balfour Winery in Kent, and I was also intrigued by my first taste of a hybrid grape (there’s that climate change influence again) called Bacchus at Lyme Bay Winery. But what turned my head, in the best way, was the 2021 Chardonnay from Danbury Ridge. The winemaker
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