In a remote lowland forest in northern Argentina, giant anteaters snuffle around termite mounds, and jaguars stalk prey along the muddy banks of the Bermejo River. Parque Nacional El Impenetrable, which opened in 2017, is one of the South American country’s newest and most diverse wildlife sanctuaries—and a growing site for ecotourism. Yet, these 320,000 acres of pristine wilderness were nearly lost to development following a brutal murder that gripped the nation.
El Impenetrable is carved out of the former territory of Manuel Roseo, a reclusive Italian immigrant rancher and one of Argentina’s largest landowners. In January 2011, Roseo was asleep in his modest home in the northern Chaco Province when three men with machetes broke in, murdering him and staging the homicide as a robbery gone wrong. The killers were the same men who’d spent the previous six months attempting to cheat Roseo out of his estate.
Roseo lived in the middle of the Gran Chaco, a hot and semiarid lowland forest that fans out from northern Argentina into Bolivia, Paraguay, and Brazil. South America’s second largest forest after the Amazon, the Gran Chaco is also one of the planet’s most threatened biomes, according to the World Wildlife Fund.
Yet, Roseo’s estate—about five hours northwest of the provincial capital Resistencia—was uniquely preserved. Its trees were never downed for soy farms or cattle ranches, as has happened in much of the Gran Chaco. And the land’s location between two key rivers, the Bermejo and Bermejito, made it a hot spot for biodiversity, including giant armadillos, caimans, and jaguars.
“My first trip to El Impenetrable was like traveling back in time because it still had the flora and fauna we’re losing elsewhere,” recalls Marisi López, regional coordinator of parks and tourism at Rewilding Argentina. The NGO was one of nearly two dozen nonprofit groups that swooped in after Roseo’s death to help persuade the Argentinian government to expropriate a swath of the bachelor’s land—the size of Hong Kong—for public use.
Parque Nacional El Impenetrable was officially established in 2017, though visitors couldn’t sleep there—or do much hiking—until 2022, when accommodations, trails, and wildlife viewing blinds began to pop up. Now, more than a decade after Roseo’s death, this notoriously “impenetrable” forest is opening up.
The main reason visitors come to El Impenetrable is to spot rare South American wildlife. Prime viewing takes place along the Bermejo River. Tapirs, peccaries, and capybaras are all common sightings, as are several vibrant bird species, including Barbie-pink roseate spoonbills.
(How to spot pumas at the newest national park in Argentina.)
Rewilding Argentina plans to bring back other species
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