‘Apericena is a moment that connects people’: why Piedmont’s answer to aperitivo hour is coming to the UK

11.09.2023 - 09:39 / theguardian.com / Winter Olympics

Piedmont is literally “at the foot of the mountains”. This expansively elegant region in the north-west of Italy occupies a unique position between the majestic Alps to its north and coastal Liguria to the south. From the heady buzz, regal portici and piazze of the main metropolis Turin, to the verdant rolling vineyards of the Langhe (a Unesco world heritage site),Piedmont’s geography has shaped its landscapes, culinary specialties and its culture and customs.

“For some time Piedmont was a hidden gem, now it’s much more well known thanks to its food and drink producers, as well as major sporting events,” says Maria Elena Rossi from the Italian Tourist Board, who has a personal and professional bond with the region; she raised her family in Piedmont, and also worked on Turin’s successful bid for the 2006 Winter Olympics.

“There are several aspects that make its culinary culture special, including its combination of Alpine and countryside influences, and its proximity to France,” she says. “For many years before the 19th-century unification of Italy, Piedmont was part of the Duchy of Savoy, which also brought French influence and traditions – which in turn were transformed through its local and seasonal ingredients.”

Back in 1861, Turin briefly became the capital of Italy: a status that transferred to Florence, then ultimately, Rome. As Rossi points out, Piedmont then transformed itself from a centre of political influence into a leading industrial power. “From the beginning of the 20th century, this was a centre of innovation, technology and development – including the automobile industry, cinema, textiles and much more,” she says.

A sense of originality and ingenuity has endured in Piedmont; you can even taste it around the table in convivial rituals such as early evening apericena: an enticing blend of aperitivo and cena (dinner).

Whereas locals in Piedmont typically observe two aperitivo periods, pre-lunch and early evening before heading home for their main meal, the concept of apericena effectively replaces dinner with a social-first, smaller-plate affair to be enjoyed with friends, family, colleagues and even strangers. Typically, it’s consumed while standing up. “Apericena is a moment that connects people,” says Rossi.

Piedmont is the birthplace of the “slow food” revolution, and it’s also where apericena originated as a way to wind down from the working day, and take pleasure in excellent company, food and drink. It may also have roots in the region’s merenda sinoira post-work refreshments: historically, a well-earned break for rural workers that was taken up by high society. Vermouth di Torino (believed to have a medicinal quality) was a traditional apericena tipple, but the modern menu is