British break: St Davids, Wales

20.07.2023 - 11:44 / wanderlust.co.uk

Like so many before me, I was drawn to St Davids – on Pembrokeshire’s westernmost tip – by tales of its saints and its history; in particular, the purple-hued cathedral that once made this a bustling centre for medieval pilgrims. Back in the 12th century, it was decreed by Pope Callixtus II that two pilgrimages to St Davids were worth the equivalent of a single journey to Rome; three, it was said, were equal to visiting Jerusalem. Even back then, this tiny Welsh city had a knack for offering up low-carbon alternatives.

Those in search of examples of the area’s centuries of unwavering religious commitment will find no shortage. The patron saint of Wales, St David (Dewi Sant), is a big deal to us Walians, and it was here that he founded his monastery in the 6th century AD, upon which now stands the present-day cathedral. It was also here that St Patrick was said to have set sail for Ireland on his mission to convert its people to Christianity.

This twin heritage is preserved in myriad activities, from trails following in the ‘footsteps of St David’ to Celtic chapels and holy wells where prayer beads still decorate saintly statues. But that is very much just one side of life here.

Despite being Britain’s ‘smallest’ city (in both population and size of urban area), St Davids still has room for a wealth of experiences centred around another theme entirely: sustainability. This is reflected in its status as Wales’ first bee-friendly city, as well as some of its more interesting quirks. Soon after arriving, I found myself devouring a ‘bug burger’ at Grub Kitchen, the UK’s only full-time insect restaurant/café and part of a local research centre focused on sustainable food production and wildlife conservation. Much to my surprise, it was rather tasty.

What Grub Kitchen highlights is that there’s far much more to St Davids than just postcard charm. There is a growing trend here towards sustainable escapes, and it is being spearheaded by local guides leading foraging tours, trips helping visitors to reconnect with the ocean by exploring the coast, and culinary geniuses incorporating wild ingredients into their recipes. Like the saints of long ago, the city’s locals are on a mission to change the world around them.

I, for one, am a happy convert. St Davids is, for me, where horizons are broadened, and I would bet that most visitors gain a deeper appreciation of their place on Earth just by being there.

St David once said: “Be joyful [and] do the little things.” There is perhaps no better advice for exploring his namesake town. For starters, download the St Davids Pollinator Trail map and follow the City Trail, learning just how this became Wales’ first bee-friendly city.