Copy My Trip: A luxury train trip through the Canadian Rockies

14.06.2024 - 14:41 / lonelyplanet.com

Jun 14, 2024 • 8 min read

Lonely Planet Destination Editor Melissa Yeager recently traveled on Rocky Mountaineer through the Canadian Rockies, from Vancouver to Jasper then on to Banff. Here, she shares some tips and insights for anyone planning a similar trip.

As an avid hiker and “outsidey not outdoorsy” person, I’ve long wanted to visit the Canadian Rockies especially places in Alberta, like Jasper and Banff. 

If you’ve also held that dream, chances are you’ve also envisioned traveling through it by train and staying in some of the photo-worthy cabins and resorts nestled near mountains and lakes.

Rocky Mountaineer is one of the companies offering train travel through this spectacular landscape, drawing visitors from Australia, the United Kingdom and the United States.

The itinerary I joined, Journey through the Clouds, began with two days in Vancouver followed by our first day on the train to the small town of Kamloops. The second day we traveled to Jasper to spend the day before climbing onboard a bus to drive the spectacular Icefields Parkway to Banff, with stops at glaciers, waterfalls and lakes along the way. 

Here’s a peek at what I experienced to help you decide if it's the right trip for you. 

Overall, the train lives up to its luxury billing, though your experience will vary based on the level of service you select. Rocky Mountaineer breaks those into GoldLeaf (highest level of service) and SilverLeaf (still very nice, just a bit less space and no dining car). SilverLeaf service for this two-day route starts at $1,599 per person while the higher level GoldLeaf starts at $2300 per person. (The price depends on your dates of travel and rises based on extra days, types of hotels and tours you add to your itinerary.)

I enjoyed GoldLeaf service on this trip, so my description is of that experience. If you want to learn what SilverLeaf service is like, read Lonely Planet Editor Alex Howard’s account of his Rocky Mountaineer trip from Moab to Denver. 

The GoldLeaf cars are remarkable because they are double decker: the upper level is where you can relax in spacious reclining chairs under a glass dome, and the bottom level has the dining car and an outdoor platform where you can stand and take photos or just enjoy the outdoors. There is an elevator for accessibility and two restrooms in the car.

Not long after I boarded, I entered the dining car for a fresh breakfast prepared by a team of chefs in the galley. Typically, half the train passengers enjoy coffee and pastries while the other dines, then swap places.

After breakfast, I returned upstairs to enjoy the scenery punctuated by fun facts from our host. The crew serves beverages (both alcoholic and non) and a nut mix between meals. 

The seats recline and