An ever growing one of a kind event is putting South Dakota’s Custer State Park ever more on the map. Those who experience the thrill of the park’s annual late-September Buffalo Roundup quickly discover that nearby Mount Rushmore is not the only dramatic site in this southeast corner of the Black Hills region. Some two million guests a year who now make the trek here are on to something, after all.
Composed of one of the oldest and most diverse geologic foundations in America that makes for hairpin curves and tunnels that you can follow for fourteen miles along Needles Highway, Custer State Park is as much a natural treasure as any lands that make up our national parks. And you will no doubt eventually wonder why this spectacular landscape hasn’t been declared one. Don’t worry about it: South Dakotans are perfectly content to manage it themselves, and a great job they do indeed with fine roads and an excellent tourism infrastructure. No matter the park’s official status, a few days or a week in and around these 71,000 acres promise to reveal one adventure after another.
Within the southern part of the Black Hills National Forest, the mile-high town of Custer serves as a gateway to the state park that lies just a few miles to the east. As your base, book yourself straight into the cute family-run Bavarian Inn in the hills just outside of town. Another of all things named for the notorious commander around here, The Custer Wolf is a locally popular casual pub restaurant.
Strolling Mt. Rushmore Road—effectively Custer’s main street whose broad width was designed to allow oxen freight carts to turn around—you’ll delight in many of the town’s fun and quirky brightly painted buffalo statues. Also there, Keely and Damien Mahony operate the Black Hills Balloons adventure outfit. The American wife and Irish husband’s crew will take you on a short early morning drive to a forest clearing while you watch the balloons get filled in anticipation of the launch of your hour-long flight. Below you, Black Hills ridges and valleys are filled with ponderosa pine, while fog swirls around rock spires and rises from the surface of forest ponds below.
After your flight, you’ll be ready for a hearty breakfast at Baker’s Bakery & Café hash house whose tagline “You’ll Love Our Buns” is placed under a cheeky logo of a waitress with baked buns peeking out from her skirt. For lunch or dinner, the Pounding Fathers Restaurant/Mt. Rushmore Brewing Company is the place to sample some of dozens of Dakota state beers on draft. So massive is the complex that you could get lost there after knocking back a few (opened seasonally from May through October).
Just north of the Custer State Park boundaries, book ahead for the super popular
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I fell in love with Jeju Island without ever stepping foot on it. My Korean-American wife and I became addicted to a K-drama called Our Blues. Instead of the usual tales about the machinations of wealthy Seoul families or one particularly famous show about various deadly games with squids, Our Blues features decidedly working-class, semi-rural characters who spend half their time onscreen cursing each other out, if not outright resorting to fisticuffs. All this strife is set against a beguiling backdrop of an island brimming with abalone and dormant volcanoes. As someone who has visited Seoul on several occasions and who appreciates Korean food and culture more than almost any other in the world, I felt Jeju exercising a mysterious, nearly mythical pull on me. I had to go.
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As revivals of quintessential Old West towns go, that of Deadwoood, South Dakota has been as robust as they get, with the Black Hills star buzzing with activity today. Some of what attracts 2.5 million visitors a year surely comes through the recent popularity of a period TV series, but the important key is that city leaders several decades ago decided to rescue a rich architectural heritage from decline.
On a crispy late-September morning under blue skies, the grassy hills of Custer State Park are surely the last place you’d ever expect to find thousands of fans screaming and hollering for their favorite team, whether members be of the bipedal or four-legged sort. With dozens of cowboys and cowgirls herding some 1,400-1,500 grunting and bellowing bison through the verdant terrain and into corrals, South Dakota’s annual Buffalo Roundup has become a huge and thrilling spectator event.