Extra time at Euro 2024: day trips and more from Berlin, Hamburg, Munich and Leipzig
15.05.2024 - 11:29
/ theguardian.com
Of all the ways to explore southern Germany this summer, the most memorable is not by train, bus or hire car but by boat. Lake Constance, nearly 40 times bigger than Windermere and two hours south-west of Munich by public transport, is a wonderful water world ringed by harbour towns, and it makes an idyllic break from the Bavarian capital.
With pomp and pageantry to spare, the medieval gateway town Lindau is the most memorable place to start your exploration. First impressions are a serious business there. Upon arrival, you see the same Germany that travellers saw 200 years ago. The seated lion statue that eyes the quayside is still visible from miles around, as is the chess piece lighthouse and the Mangturm, a Rapunzel tower that colours the skyline with zigzag tile patterns in gold and green.
On Lake Constance’s German shore, running north-west from Lindau and accessed by the affordable, shoreline-hopping BSB ferry service, is an even older world. There are old vineyards, old churches, old castles and older monasteries, many of which could well outlive Munich’s tower blocks and football stadiums. The delights of sailing and windsurfing on one of Europe’s largest lakes – as well as swimming in it – worked wonders on me when I first visited after the 2006 World Cup.
After enjoying Lindau’s fortified walls, ivy-draped towers, promenade streets and beer gardens, it’s a 90-minute boat trip to Friedrichshafen, 15 miles up the lakeshore. Here there is often a strange, keel-like structure in the sky above the lake. As much a reminder of the first world war and the Hindenburg disaster as it is of Germany’s engineering prowess, the Zeppelin remains the symbol of Friedrichshafen, and the rigid airships whirr visitors on sightseeing tours above Lake Constance daily in summer. The Zeppelin was born here – on 2 July 1900, the blimp’s initial test flight took place over the shore – and its history can be traced at the harbour Zeppelin Museum. From up in the airship, the blue, far below, makes the inland sea look as if it belongs in a Romantic painting by Caspar David Friedrich.
Most people think Germany is for beer drinkers, but Lake Constance is less about the grain and more about the grape. Pinot gris, blanc, noir and local cultivar Müller-Thurgau have revered status here, and the lakeshore’s pitched sides are braided with vineyards and wine hiking trails.
Meersburg, 12 miles west of Friedrichshafen, offers lakeshore taverns, delicious €4 glasses of plonk and a summer coat of vines, as well as an extraordinary, rose-tinged castle. There are plenty of wineries to choose from, but a long favourite is the Staatsweingut Meersburg, a former prince’s pet winery a steep stroll from the quayside.
From Meersburg’s ferry