Florence in 5 Shops: Tuscan leather, hand-painted ceramics and sculpture souvenirs

21.02.2024 - 23:25 / lonelyplanet.com

Florence's transformation over the past two decades may not be visible at first glance – the red roofs, stone-paved alleys and Renaissance monuments have remained largely intact for centuries.

But ask anyone who lives in the Tuscan capital and they’ll tell you about the consequences of turning an entire city into an open-air museum. Millions reach the UNESCO-inscribed city center each year and small-scale businesses formerly catering to locals increasingly adapt to attract the flowing masses.

Moving back to the city after 12 years abroad has made this shift even more evident to me. As I walk through the streets of Florence, I often wonder where the balance between urban spaces meant to be lived and spaces designed to be visited lies. But despite the pressures of the modern world, a number of independent artists, designers, craftspeople and winemakers continue to feed old traditions and contemporary culture with new ideas. You just need to find them.

Steps away from the 14th-century city gate of Porta San Frediano, Galleria Romanelli pays tribute to the ancient art of transforming marble and clay into realistic figures. The Romanelli family has operated in this former church since the early 19th century when Pasquale Romanelli began his craft under the mentorship of Lorenzo Bartolini. Bartolini, whose works are displayed in the Galleria dell’Accademia and other prestigious museums, passed away in 1850, and Romanelli took over the studio. This marked the beginning for six generations of artists who have continued to work there to the present day. Upon entering the gallery's glass doors, visitors find themselves amidst monumental statues of historic figures and animals in the spectacular showroom. For a unique memento, join one of the classes led by Raffaello Romanelli to create your own clay section of Michelangelo’s David.

Florence's relationship with leather production spans more than 800 years. In 1282, the Arte dei Cuoiai e Galigai, a guild of professional tanners and leather artisans, was established in the city, marking the beginning of a tradition that persists to this day. Venture beyond the crowded stalls of San Lorenzo’s market and into an underground workshop on Via dei Pandolfini for a contemporary twist on the ancient craft.

A mannequin adorned with nipple covers sets the tone when you walk  into Apelle Lab, opened in 2023 by Ilaria and Guglielmo, alumni of Florence’s renowned Scuola del Cuoio. The workshop functions as both a coworking space for independent leather artisans and a studio that produces belts, shoes, glasses cases, and wall decorations from upcycled materials sourced from production leftovers. Choose from the distinctive pieces on display or participate in a three-hour hands-on