Kings of the mountain: all you need to know about the food, drink and produce of Piedmont
11.09.2023 - 09:29
/ theguardian.com
Piedmont’s food and drink is a product of its position between the Italian Alps and coastal Liguria. Because of its unique location, Piedmont was once part of the via del sale or “salt road”, a historic trading route that connected the mountains to the sea. Hence the presence of hardy ingredients inPiedmontesedishes such as the popular vitello tonnato – thin slices of marinated veal served in a rich sauce of tuna, capers and anchovies.
Many other Italian favourites were first created here. Sometimes necessity was the mother of invention. For instance, gianduja: a chocolate and hazelnut paste originated in early 19th-century Turin when cocoa shortages inspired a chocolatier to experiment with recipes that included locally grown nuts.
But for those who are new to the riches of the region, what are the other absolute must-tries from Piedmont? You could startwith the nebbiolo grape, which thrives in the southern Langhe district, where steep hillsides are criss-crossed with vines. The best known nebbiolo wines are barolo and barbaresco, prized for their rich tannins and delicate, floral flavour.
“What makes barolo and barbaresco so special is that the nebbiolo grape is very picky about where it will grow,” says Anna Savino, who founded the Barolo Wine Club in 2019. “These grapes are very terroir-driven; they pick up on the smallest changes from hillside to hillside.” Savino chooses a selection of barolos and barberescos from small, family run wineries in Piedmont to ship to subscribers around the world.
“The grape and the terroir make a magic match,” adds Aldo Vacca, general manager of a wine cooperative set up in 1958 in the village of Barbaresco, who explains that the secret is the balance of clay, calcium and sand in the earth. “There have been several attempts to grow the nebbiolo grape in other parts of the world, but the grape hasn’t achieved the same status outside Piedmont,” he says. Each autumn, 54 farmers in the wine co-operative deliver their grapes to the facility owned by Produttori del Barbaresco in return for a share of the profit from the wine.
Such hearty red wines call for good Piedmontese fare to accompany them, says Savino. Dishes such as stracotto di fassona Piemontese (Piedmont braised beef), or risotto with rare white truffles from nearby Alba, Langhe’s largest town, or fonduta – Piedmont’s egg-yolk enriched take on classic Swiss fondue. Other classic Piedmontese dishes include tajarin, a silky thin, hand cut pasta made from egg yolks and served either plain with butter, in a broth or with a rich ragu. For something lighter, Savino suggests sipping a barbaresco while nibbling on the region’s famous hazelnuts (lightly toasted, of course).
Sbirro is a unique cheese washed in Menabrea