I first arrived in Chiang Mai in May of 1992. I came to visit a high school buddy who had married a local – a professor at Chiang Mai University. They introduced me to the local cuisine, and to their friends and family members who took me under their collective wing.
I was hooked: I returned every year until I opened the first Pok Pok restaurant in Portland, Oregon in 2005. In the following years I opened and closed a couple dozen restaurants, wrote a few cookbooks and traveled the world evangelizing the food culture of Thailand – especially that of Chiang Mai and its surrounding countryside.
In the last 30 years, a lot has changed in the land of Lanna but one thing has remained constant... Chiang Mai is one of the great eating destinations of the world.
In Thailand, breakfast foods are often the same as lunch or dinner foods, so it pays to set aside notions of pancakes and scrambled eggs in the morning. My favorite spot for morning respite is the decades-old family-run Phatom, which specializes in rice porridge served with an array of Chinese/Thai dishes like jap chai (fried sweet Chinese sausage and braised tofu). Laap Dii Khom Khon Yong, just off the first ring road, serves some of the best Northern Thai laap. You can’t go wrong with laap muu suk (the cooked pork version) and dishes like jaw phak kat (greens soup), kaeng awm (beef shin stew) and grilled pork. This is where a local might take you! If you really must have a Western brekky, there’s The Larder.
Thailand has become a hotbed of specialty coffee and Chiang Mai is the de facto capital of this movement with hundreds of cafes serving locally grown and roasted beans. My go-to is Akha Ama in the center of the old town where highly trained baristas crank out the best espresso drinks in the city, made with direct trade coffee from the Akha people of Chiang Rai province. A little outside the core of the city is the local hip favorite Flo, housed in a 100+ year old wooden shophouse.
In the heart of the old city is Yok Fa Pochana where the tastiest plate of phat si ew (stir fry noodles) in town is made in a giant wok over a roaring fire to a formula unchanged in 50 years. Worth finding is Naam Ngiao Phayao where little English is spoken but the friendly older couple who run it will make you feel at home. The eponymous dish is what you’re after: fresh rice vermicelli in a brothy, sour, umami-rich curry/soup with pork ribs, soft blood tofu and the dried pistil of the dawk ngiaw (red cotton tree flower). This is a crucial dish of the region and theirs is one of the best in the area.
Khao Soi Prince serves an exemplary bowl of what is now considered the signature dish of Chiang Mai, khao soi (egg noodle soup in a curry broth). This involves a 20km drive
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After winter made a couple of extra encores in Britain this year, summer has finally arrived. It's time to book some friends and pack your bags for a weekend of unbridled joy, with live music, dress-ups and fairground rides, plus performance poets, world food and pop-up hot-tubs – the UK’s music festivals are worth planning a holiday around.
Halifax is a harbor town. A narrow neck opens up to the protected waters of Bedford Basin, making it ideal as a naval and shipping port. Before Europeans arrived, this body of water was a sanctuary and home to Indigenous Mi’kmaq for millennia.
Dog-friendly year-round but with an on-leads rule between 1 April and 31 August to protect ground-nesting birds, Holkham beach is a brilliant family destination. The walk down to the golden sand is enchanting – along boardwalks and through pine forest – and there’s a cafe serving homemade sandwiches and cakes. Lots of great local walks too. Stay pet-friendly Sueda Cottage, with its own walled garden, is a minute’s walk from the harbour and pub. From £89a night (sleeps 4, plus two dogs)
I often recall the deep cherry lip tint I wore on my first night in Paris. My dear Parisian friend complimented me, borrowed it, and planted a kiss on my cheek. Plenty of smiles came my way on the Métro, thanks to her lipstick stain on my face. On a cloudy day in Berlin, I applied a tinted suede shade of pink, kissed a cozy café’s free postcard, and sent it to my friend back home in NYC. In Manhattan's West Village, one friendly (and perhaps tipsy) stranger asked if she could borrow my NARS Hot Kiss lipstick to use as her blush. She was visiting from Italy—it was her first night, and tragically, she had forgotten to pack her entire makeup bag.
Wild Canvas, one of the recent wave of pop-up campsites with a festival vibe, has a host of new additions for its fifth outing this summer. The campsite makes the most of its riverside setting on the Turvey House Estate near Bedford. It has a new wellness area, the Nest, with direct river access (BYO paddleboard!) plus a yoga yurt, a mobile sauna, a treatment tent for massages and free early-morning activities from meditation to boot camp.
It would be an understatement to say that there’s a lot more to do in Dublin than drink your weight in pints at Temple Bar — the city is rich with deep-rooted history and offers an incredible English literary scene that easily rivals any other big English-speaking city. The pint at the end of the day is really just a bonus.
Destinations across Europe are battling overtourism - visit Venice and you’ll have to pay an entry fee, book for Amsterdam and you’ll be asked to take a quiz about your holiday activities, head to the Canary Islands and you might see graffiti telling tourists to go home.