Steeped in history from the Viking Age to the Age of Reason, Uppsala is packed with historical landmarks. Yet one of the biggest historic landmarks, its University, provides an injection of youthful vibrancy to this intellectual city.
03.01.2024 - 10:17 / theguardian.com
I think of it as the “adventure moment”: when the guide says goodbye; when the boat unexpectedly pulls up to the riverbank and the captain tells you to get off; when no one speaks any language you understand; when you have to call on your own resources. The adventure starts when there is no one to tell you what to do next.
At the Kajaktiv Tjörn kayak centre on the Swedish island of Koön, my son Niall and I are about to have an adventure moment. We listen to the advice from the owner, Patrick. There is a bit about deteriorating weather three days ahead. I’m more concerned about where to wild camp tonight and getting a route marked on the map. Ahead lies the Bohuslän archipelago, a vast pointillist masterpiece in smooth granite: thousands of islets and outcrops along the west coast of Sweden, some the size of an overturned kayak, others large enough to land a rescue helicopter.
I am painfully aware that Niall is not an experienced kayaker and may not understand what he is getting into. Niall is painfully aware that his father is prone to exaggerating his abilities while downplaying dangers. What could go wrong?
As we paddle away from Patrick and the safety of his shop, we both know we are going to have an adventure. And we do. The first night is easy. We camp a mile from base, comfortably close to safety. Next day we weave through a maze of channels, between beautiful lumps of rounded granite. If Henry Moore had designed an archipelago, this would be it.
We reach a clapboard fishing village with a cafe, where we tie up. We get a tiny frisson of excitement, a micro-dose of what is to come, when we decide to camp on an outlying islet. The incoming tide is fighting a stiff breeze that is stirring up the sea. We camp and catch mackerel for dinner. It’s idyllic, the fear soon forgotten.
Two more days pass and we are much-improved paddlers, which is handy because a storm is brewing. Niall is desperate to see England’s first World Cup match, against Tunisia in Volgograd. (How long ago does that seem? It was 2018.) Under darkening skies we bludgeon our way across a choppy fjord, frighten some deer off a narrow beach and set up camp. Then we charge up the fjord in our kayaks, abandon them and pick up a footpath into a forest. At sunset we bump into a farmer who grasps our predicament instantly. Kick-off is imminent and the nearest bar with a TV is five miles away. He offers directions and the loan of bikes, but the bikes are rusted and useless. We jog. As darkness falls, so does an icy rain. Niall forges ahead. I reach the bar at kick-off.
I don’t remember the match at all. What I vividly recall is the return journey: trying to find the kayaks, then battling wind and waves while trying to spot the tents in the
Steeped in history from the Viking Age to the Age of Reason, Uppsala is packed with historical landmarks. Yet one of the biggest historic landmarks, its University, provides an injection of youthful vibrancy to this intellectual city.
This week sees the launch of Sustainable Journeys, a new UK tour operator dedicated to helping people take steps to travel more sustainably by providing itineraries and unforgettable travel experiences which enable individual travellers to explore, whilst taking into consideration environmental conservation, social inclusivity, and economic benefits to local communities.
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The recent sensational discoveries of Viking ship graves in Norway have captured global headlines, highlighting the rich history of the Viking Age in Scandinavia. Yet, just across the border in Sweden, there’s a treasure trove of Norse history already visible and accessible, offering a fascinating glimpse into the history of Northern Europe.
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A passport is more than permission to travel across borders; holders of the world's most powerful passports have access to different ways of living that other passport holders do not. Heading into 2024, new data reveals not only the passports that give access to the most countries, but also where you might find a better quality of life.
Six countries now have the world's most powerful passport, according to the 2024 Henley Passport Index — but the US isn't one of them.
Humans have always traveled and settled, but we have learned to reconcile our urge to explore “what lies beyond” with our desire for the comfort that comes from building a space to call “home.” And these powerful human impulses have been driven to new heights by our passion to perfect, taking both transport and architecture on fascinating evolutionary journeys.
Four European countries now have the world’s most powerful passports.
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The northern lights, or the aurora borealis, are beautiful dancing waves of light that have captivated people for millennia. The northern lights are poised to grace the skies with resplendent displays (the best in two decades) courtesy of the sun's upcoming "solar maximum" phase peaking between January and October 2024. From cozy cabins with panoramic vistas to remote lodges offering front-row seats to the ethereal dance, Airbnb gathered a selection of listings in prime viewing spots in north polar Alaska, Iceland and Scandinavia – all among the most wishlisted Airbnbs in the Arctic Category.
Our slow travel series explores how you can take more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike – with tips on how to reach your destination without flying, and what to see and do along the way. Here, Daniel James Clarke explains how he traveled from Lapland to the Lofoten Islands, crossing the Arctic Circle aboard two of Scandinavia’s most scenic train journeys.