Off Season Italy: Springtime in Venice Is Unbeatable, According to Author Alberto Toso Fei

06.04.2024 - 10:27 / cntraveler.com

This is part of Off Season Italy, a collection of guides highlighting the year-round appeal of Italy's most popular destinations, courtesy of our favorite local tastemakers. Read more here.

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Alberto Toso Fei

Bonafide Venetian Alberto Toso Fei comes from a long line of Murano glassmakers (the first documentation of the name Toso comes from 1351). He’s a journalist, author, and essayist whose work has been translated into several languages. Recovered spoken traditions have inspired his books about the city’s secret histories and legends, like Venetian Legends and Ghost Stories, Mysteries of Venice, and Venice in Numbers. His books have been adapted into theatrical performances, artworks, installations, treasure hunts, and tourist routes. Like a living time machine, his storytelling gives life to recitals, lectures, TEDx talks, initiatives, and online and social media events. In 2023, the Venetian publisher Marsilio published his first novel, Byron's Right Foot—a noir mystery set in the lagoon. One of Venice’s leading cultural figures, Alberto is a landmark storyteller—the narrator of Venice.

When is the right time of year to visit Venice?

The best months are early spring, between the aftermath of Carnival and the arrival of Easter, or October, when the summer heat subsides and the crowds start to thin out. But Venice is also at its best in winter. If you’re not discouraged by the cold, a foggy evening spent getting lost in the labyrinth of the calli (Venetian alleys) can be immensely satisfying.

Antique fairs abound in Campo San Maurizio and San Marco during the winter months.

Masks on sale in a Venetian market

Is there something in particular you love about these times of year?

The impact of travelers is mitigated. Venetians can recover their relationship with the city. The less frenetic atmosphere lets them rediscover their surroundings.

Is there ever a time when no travelers are in Venice?

The idea that people only come to Venice at a specific time of year is part of the distant past. Certainly, less hurried visitors arrive in the so-called off-season. They’re more attentive to the city's rhythms and try to get in tune with them. It’s worth noting that the Biennale (Art or Architecture, depending on the year) starts in April. Apart from thoroughly enjoying the city’s beauty in general, there are endless possibilities for devoting your stay entirely to culture.

Where do you find yourself eating the most?

To name just one establishment would do a disservice to the determination and passion of dozens of restaurateurs! In